Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Explained (24 Studies): EVERYTHING You Need to Know!
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Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), a.k.a that derivative of Vitamin C no one pays attention to. If there actually existed an effective “natural acne treatment” this would be it.
Unlike its older brother Ascorbic Acid, SAP isn’t an unstable brat that oxidizes quickly. Little research has been done on this lovely ingredient, but what’s out there is promising.
Let’s break down the science behind this lovely lone warrior and explain why you should be using it!
Table of Contents
What is Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)?
Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum (10% SAP)
It’s an OG acne-killing machine — that’s what. “Okay, that’s nice but can we talk science?” Sure.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a naturally occurring water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. You know, that stuff you try overdosing on a little too late when you feel a plague’s about to hit.
It’s the most stable form of Vitamin C, meaning it won’t oxidize and go bad in a couple months, making it a preferable choice for cosmetic formulations. It’s more stable and bioavailable than Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), Ascorbyl Palmitate, and Ascorbic Acid (among other Vitamin C derivatives). (1, 2)
Unlike it’s powerful but bratty older brother Ascorbic Acid, it doesn’t like acidic environments and requires a pH of around 6-7. (3) It’s an antioxidant that reduces oxidative stress by neutralizing free radicals, effectively slowing down the aging process and formation of fine lines and wrinkles. (4)
When it’s well formulated, SAP has the ability to penetrate the epidermis (outer layer of skin where the stratum corneum and acid mantle lie) without causing irritation. (5)
What are the benefits of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)?
Instanatural Vitamin C Serum (20% SAP)
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Anti-aging.
We all know UVA and UVB radiation from sun exposure causes degenerative effects that speed along the aging process.
Sunscreen anyone?
Luckily SAP is a badass oxygen species scavenger that protects against UV damage, and enhances the photoprotective properties of sunscreen. (6, 7, 8)
Confused? Don’t worry, I gotchu. English translation = it prevents sunburn and makes sunscreens stronger, both of which are anti-aging necessities. 😉
Speaking of photoprotection, we all know how important that is when treating hyperpigmentation issues. If you didn’t know that, read my guide about treating hyperpigmetation to find out why. Much like a tyrosinase inhibitor, SAP has skin-lightening properties by inhibiting melanin production (melanin being the skin pigment responsible for all your hyperpigmention woes).
However, the research on the skin lightening benefits of SAP is scarce and needs to be examined more throughly. Paula’s Choice said it best:
“This form of vitamin C is potentially effective for brightening an uneven skin tone, although there isn’t much research supporting its use for this purpose over other forms of vitamin C.”
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Badass natural acne-killer.
This is what appeals to me most about SAP. I’ve used this sexy lady in the past, and its anti-acne benefits are undeniable!
“Yeah, but who cares what you say. Where’s the the research punk?”
Yes yes, indeed. Luckily we have a couple studies that have measured the acne-fighting benefits of SAP. Let’s summarize them.
In a vitro study, a group of researches were able to show that a measly 1% concentration of SAP (yes, 1%) has strong antimicrobial effects against acne for 8 hours! (9) Mind you, there are products out there on the market with concentrations of 10% and above (for example, Mad Hippie’s Vitamin C Serum).
The same researchers also found that 5% SAP lotion used for 12 weeks produced excellent results in 76.9% of patients, which is considerably higher than other prescribed acne treatments. (10) Best of all, it treats acne with no side effects. (11)
Not only that, for decades scientists have known that lipid peroxidation (i.e. the oxidation of sebum) plays a MAJOR role in the development of acne. In fact, there is evidence that “lipid peroxidation is the driving force behind the progression of comedogenesis and inflammation in acne.” (12)
Well guess what prevents sebum oxidation? SAP! Indeed, research has shown that it reduces sebum oxidation by up to 40%! (10)
UPDATE 8/9/2017: rereading this blog post I felt that I really needed to better hammer this point home. So here’s some additional info….
The oxidized byproducts of human sebum are hugely problematic for skin. They are, after all, what leads to acne and skin aging. For example, squalene peroxide “leads to comedogenesis (i.e. clogged pores), contributes to the development of inflammatory acne, and possibly wrinkling.” (22)
And this can occur for all kinds of reasons: ozone, sun exposure (particularly long UVA rays), cigarette smoke, the natural yeast like malassezia that live on our skin, environmental pollution etc. are shown powerful oxidizing agents of our skin oils. (22, 23, 24)
So the fact that SAP can prevent this by up to 40% is astonishing! Not only for the prevention of acne, but also as a very useful tool against aging and the damaging effects that pollution causes on our skin.
Now back to our originally scheduled programming…..
Moreover, other clinical trials have shown SAP has better efficacy (i.e. is MORE effective) than 5% benzoyl peroxide, 1% clindamycin phosphate, 0.1% adapalene (a.k.a differin). (10, 11, 13, 14, 15)
Like I mentioned earlier, we still need more research to really see the extent of this bad boy’s badassery, but from what’s out there already it’s looking very promising.
How does Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) Work?
Foxbrim Vitamin C Lotion (5% SAP)
Since there is such limited research on SAP the evidence on how it works isn’t conclusive yet. The assumption is that it gets converted into Ascorbic Acid in the skin. Ascorbic acid is the holy grail powerful version of Vitamin C that unfortunately degrades quickly making it a pain in the ass to formulate in cosmetics. The bratty older brother, remember?
Related reading: Best Vitamin C Serums (Ascorbic Acid): Top 5 Picks for Glowing Skin
The hypothesis that SAP is converted into Ascorbic Acid came from a study done on mice. (16) Yeah yeah, I know what you’re thinking. “That was a study on rats though. Shit don’t apply to us man.”
Well guess what sucker?
There was another study comparing the bioavailability of 2% SAP vs. 2% ascorbyl glucoside in humans, and it just so happened that the skin treated with SAP had a markedly higher epidermal Ascorbic Acid content. (17, 18)
So while not conclusive, it seems pretty obvious genius. Whether SAP is more effective than Ascorbic Acid itself…. well, that’s another question entirely. I personally think yes, simply because my skin cannot tolerate ascorbic acid. I find it irritates me quite a bit if I try to use it more than once a week.
The formulators of Mad Hippie’s Vitamin C Serum had a few interesting things to say on the whole sodium ascorbyl phosphate vs ascorbic acid topic. Here are the relevant bits from an email exchange with them:
“Ascorbic acid is not very easily absorbed through the skin’s lipid barrier so a high concentration of L-ascorbic acid is needed (usually 15-20%) to make an effective product. At this concentration, while it slowly absorbs, L-ascorbic acid can cause irritation and acne outbreaks for those with sensitive or acne prone skin. So while L-ascorbic acid has been around for a long time and it works for some people, we feel that there are better forms of Vitamin C now available.
The form of Vitamin C that we choose to use is called sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP). It is a form of Vitamin C that has a salt molecule attached to it, allowing it to easily penetrate the skin’s lipid barrier. Because this form of Vitamin C is easily absorbed and utilized by the skin, it is not associated with the irritation often experienced with L-ascorbic acid.
Furthermore, a lower concentration is needed for the same results, which also leads to less irritation. We use about 10% sodium ascorbyl phosphate which is equivalent to a much higher concentration of L-ascorbic acid because it is much more bioavailable. It is also phenomenally more stable, allowing longer shelf life, even once it has been opened.”
The company’s also won several skincare awards from a couple big name magazines, so there’s that too. I can’t vouch for how pertinent that information is because I’m personally unfamiliar with the magazines. But I do think their vitamin C serum is solid.
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The takeaway.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a stable powerful antioxidant that provides photoprotection, increases the effectiveness of sunscreen, lightens skin tone, fades discoloration, and fights acne.
Side Effects.
Yeah, how about none? Rarely can you say that about an active ingredient, but like I mentioned earlier — clinical studies have shown SAP is an effective acne treatment comparable to benzoyl peroxide, adapalene (Retinoid), and antibiotics without the side effects.
In fact, the irritation level is on par with the vehicle in most trials, meaning there is no irritation. (19, 20, 21)
How to Use Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate.
Because SAP is pH dependent it’s important to use it after chemical exfoliates or low pH serums. To get an idea of what that would look in a routine with all things being considered, here’s a cheat sheet.
Note: depending on what products you’re using, some of these steps won’t apply.
- Oil cleansing method, or oil cleanser.
- Gentle pH-balanced cleanser (5.5 or below)
- Low pH serums or toner. Wait 20-30 minutes.
- BHA. Wait 20-30 minutes.
- AHA (glycolic, lactic, mandelic). Wait 20-30 minutes.
- *Vitamin C (SAP)*
- Retinoids (Tretinoin [Retin-A], Retinol)
- Spot treatments or other actives (e.g. Benzoyl Peroxide, Azelaic Acid).
- Moisturizers.
- Occlusives (Vaseline, Aquaphor)
Alrighty, well that does it for our talk on SAP. Hope you’ve enjoyed it!
Warmly,
—f.c.
Tell your friends about this natural badass acne-killer! Share this!
Dear f.c.,
First of all, where you’ve been all my life?! I am so so lucky to have found your website today; the information you provide here is incredibly useful, relevant and detailed, and your writing style is so fun and easy to comprehend. THANK YOU !!!
Regarding your Vitamin C article: a huge eye-opener for me, as I’ve just recently bought a bottle of 100%Pure ‘s VitC serum (cos it was only 10 bucks)), but was really clueless about where to incorporate it in my newbie skincare routine, so the thing was just sitting in my drawer.. Thanks to you, now I know what to do 🙂
It is listed as a Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, and I am going to assume it is pretty equivalent to SAP – the only difference being the kind of salt it’s bound with..
Well, I’m back to keep reading through your site. It’s a middle of a workday, but who cares 🙂
Thanks again, did I mention you’re great?
Best Wishes,
Wow, it’s so kind of you to find time and provide a detailed personalized advice, thank you for that ( I feel like a broken record: thank you thank you thank you; but I’m very grateful indeed). I am definitely going to try the patch test with new stuff.
I am sorry you got a reaction to Galactomyces; but at least it was just a stumble- from your before/after pics – your skin looks next to flawless now, anyway 🙂
It sucks having a really sensitive skin, but I think there’s a silver lining to it: a fussy skin tells you right away, loud and clear, what it doesn’t like, so you can promptly remove that trigger w/o causing much damage with prolonged exposure, you know what I mean? I once complained to a doctor about my inherent photosensitivity (I get a rash from an unprotected exposure to sunlight for more than 20min so I can’t tan) – and she said, that’s great, you’re less likely to develop real problems like premature aging or skin cancer – as opposed to people who love to be in the sun a lot!
Way to look at the bright side 🙂
You see, my Curology formula is sort of – eh.. “8%Azelaic Acid; 1% Clindamycin; 0.25% Zinc Pyrithione. Do I really need an Rx for _that_?? Now that I know about tretinoin and niacinamide and I want to try those.. My concerns are uneven skin tone and huge pores :/You’re absolutely right, I’d better start questioning the doc..
Anyway, I hope you are having a lovely weekend. Cheers!
Does using MUAC Mandelic Acid toner before Vitamin C (SAP) make the vitamin C less effective?
Hi! :> Does SAP also increase collagen production?
Hi, first of all sorry for my english that’s not my native language 🙁
Thank you so much for all of the help that you provide, i’ve been struggling for a long time to find advices and personal experiences that i could rely on ! And your blog has helped me lot to learn about different composants to include in my skincare routine to finally get rid of Acne. I’d like to know which vitamin c products (i’ve been searching for serums specifically but you know wtv that can help will be OK), that you’ve tried ofc, would you recommend ? Thanks again.
Hi there – thanks for your amazing blog. I have had terrible skin for years – and have tried almost as much as you have (accutane x2, clinda, oral abx, retin-a, differen, spironolactone, etc) and it was all working until I wanted to try and have a family (and then birth control, spironolactone and Retin-A ALL had to be STOPPED. sad face). So now I am trying to figure out a new routine. But, I have a quick question about my proposed routines and the time to wait after toning if you’re going right into a low pH SAP product. Does it need to be the whole 20-30 min? I will need to adjust my AM schedule accordingly if so.
My proposed AM routine:
cleanse, tone (with apple cider vinegar – bad choice??), vit c serum (mad hippie), yuli skin fuel serum/oil, spf
My proposed PM routine:
oil cleanse, 2nd cleanse, Azeliac acid (have an Rx for now, may switch to the Ordinary 10% to save some $$$), Moisturizer
How long to I have to wait to layer my moisturizer on top of the Azeliac acid?
Thank you so much for your time. Love your site.
In my experience, L-AA is much more effective in every way than SAP apart from reducing acne. From research I’ve done, MAP converts to AA at higher amounts than SAP and also penetrates the skin well and does a better job at increasing collagen than SAP. There are quite a lot of stable L-AA vitamin c serums out there so it’s not that much of an issue for me.
I’m thinking of using both a L-AA serum for all its amazing short term and long term benefits and an SAP serum for acne since it performs so well even in comparison to traditional acne reducing topicals.
Love love love your website. Informative, Quirky n in my case an eye opener ( Baking soda n Lemon) I have been using Drunk Elephant C Firma in d AM. It is on the expensive side but well I’ll rather pay for skincare than makeup. What do u think? Is there a better alternative at a lower price? Your views pls.
great website! one question on the above routine.
I see that you’ve included retinoids (step 7) after BHA/ AHA (step 4-5)
however on a product that you’ve recommended before (Drunken Elephant glycolic night serum), they recommend avoid using retinoids after using their products. Do you know what the rationale might be and how should I judge what to do?
Thanks!
Hello!
I currently use SAP in the morning and niacinamide along with retinol in the evening but was wondering if I could mix the SAP and niacinamide?
Thanks!
Hi
First of all, I love your website! I think is very informative and easy to comprehend. I was wondering if you could make a review of gentler cleansers. What should it have? (apart from being pH balanced)
Please help me..Ive got all of this skincare sitting here and in pretty sure I’m using them wrong..Ill use up something then buy something different ..Can I please give u a list of things I have and u tell me what to use? I used to use perricone md products but now more cheaper things basically..Anyway so here it is..Ordinary azeloac acid suspension
Ordinary advanced retinoid 2%
AHA 30% BHA 2% peeling solution..just so u know I alternate those first 2 and use the AHA BHA once a week..so here is the rest..argireline solution 10%
Buffet
Burt bees brightening moisturizer
Loreal revitalift night cream
Timeless vitamin c serum
Benton snail bee mask
Hada labo lotion
CeraVe pm
Dickenson toner..
Ok so I use the toner and vitamin c and argireline and buffet and bury bee moist. during the day
At night I alternate the retinol and azelaic solution so each 3 times a week and one of those nights I use the ordinary AHA..and use everything same as am except no vitamin c and I ofcourse use loreal night moisturizer instead of Burt bee day moist..Am I doing alright? What am I missing..Also I’m going to dermaroll tomorrow which is why I got the benton and had labo and ceraVe pm..what else do I need with that..I got those from your blog(here) but the thing is I have always been told not to mix vitamin c with niacinamide yet u referred those items for dermarolling..please help..what do I need with dermarolling..they say copper peptides but I didn’t see anything that u suggested so I simply bought 1 item out of each of your items listed for use after dermarolling..ive read so much and everyone says something different..thank u..
Topical Ascorbyl palmitate increases skin cancer risk when worn in the Sun. I wonder how SAP would care. Since it’s stable (relative to ascorbyl palmitate) it might not have the same problem. I suspect the problem with the ascorbyl palmitate was that it oxidized in the sun, the resulting product robbing electrons thereby increasing oxidation.
I would like to see Mad’s justification for saying l-ascorbic had low absorption through the lipid layer. I presume it’s not the result of a study finding but using the rationale that it’s water based, not lipid based, but studies show that of all vitamin c types, including ascorbyl phosphates, nothing gets to the basal regions like l-Ascorbate, due to the tiny molecule size. The problem with l-Ascorbate is, as you say, it’s bratty … Oxidizes like a cry baby.
I have mad hippie c serum and I have left it unscrewed for a week, will it still be effective or should I get a new bottle?
Hmmm… until now this is what I’ve been doing for AM routine with no wait time in between
1. Cleanse
2. Cosrx AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner(lowers ph as far as i know)
3. Mad Hippie Vit C Serum
4. Benton Bee Snail Essence
5. Benton Aloe Propolis Gel mixed with Squalane Oil
But now since I’ve read up that this serum needs 6-7 Ph, I guess i should take like a 20 min pause between toner and Vit C, and after Vit C i can continue with the rest right after ? And… have I wasted 2 bottles of this thing so far? o____O
Hi! Can SAP and L-AA be used at the same time? Thanks
Ugh, I’ve been using mine out of order, I put it on before my bha. I’ll have to change up my routine. Have you ever tried Kleem organics vitamin C serum? I got it in an Amazon flash deal and I’m obsessed. Not as familiar as you with ingredients but none of them seem to make my acne worse. Ingredients below:
Deionized Water (Aqua), 20% Vitamin C (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate), 10% Hyaluronic Acid, Witch Hazel, Vitamin E, Carbomer, Arginine, Ferulic Acid, Vegetable Glycerin, Organic Jojoba Oil, Ethyl Hexyl Glycerin, Rose Ether, Horsetail Plant Extract, Geranium Extract, Dandelion Extract, Organic Aloe Vera, Organic Gotu Kola Extract
Question: for my routine, is it okay to not always wait the full 20-30 mins before applying mad hippie vit C after aloe Vera? The aloe I use is a pH of 4-4.5, and I know the vitamin C needs about a 6.5. Also, I assume mad hippies vitamin C is pretty safe for Malassezia?
My make skin issue is an unbalanced, dry and sensitive ph and Malassezia on my forehead (so far aloe is the only thing that has really worked)
My routine (still working and patch testing things)
Am:
Water cleanse, or just rub aloe then wipe off
More aloe, let sit for 20
Mad Hippie Vitamin C
Squalane mixed with DIY urea and hyaluronic acid serum.
Vasaline
Pm:
Colloidal oatmeal cleanse
Aloe to fight Malassezia and drop my ph again wait about 10 mins
Squalane, urea, hyaluronic acid serum
Vasaline (still scares me but I’m getting used to it lol)
Maybe this is a dumb question, but if your skin can handle it can you apply multiple actives? (ie, applying both benzoyl peroxide and azaleic acid in the evening?)