EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46 Review: The American Unicorn
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I’ve been getting several requests to discuss sunscreen on this blog so what the heck, why not? But before we start, I have to get something off my chest: I’m not a big fan of sunscreen.
I’M SORRY! Let me try and explain myself before you leave.
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Look, I understand how important sunscreen is. I understand it’s the single-most important thing you can do to prevent aging. I understand that I should be diligently wearing it every day. And I understand that the older me will thank me a million times over for doing so. But I simplyΒ hate the way most of them feel on the skin or make me look.
Yes, I know that Asian sunscreens are a million times better aesthetically (I will review these in the future), but today we’ll be focusing on one of the onlyΒ American sunscreens I have found good enough to actually repurchase a few times: theΒ EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46.
Table of Contents
What Makes a Good Sunscreen?
When we discuss sunscreen, there are two things you should be looking for:
1. Sun protection. Duh.
But seriously, this should come first and foremost.Β The problem is, the majority of sunscreens out on the market today don’t provide an adequate amount of coverage (at least the American ones). This has to do with the way sun protection ratings work in the U.S.
Rather than the PPD system seen in many Asian countries, America uses the SPF system. If you don’t know the difference between the two. Here’s a quick recap.
- SPF = sun protection factor. This measures the protection against UVB rays.
- PPD = persistent pigment darkening. This measures the protection against UVA rays.
Why is this important?
Because UVB rays are what cause burning, and UVA rays are what cause aging. It’s very simple to remember Β β just think UVBΒ forΒ burning, and UVA forΒ aging.
With that said, the primary focus of daily sunscreen use should be UVA protection… At least if you want to age gracefully like those Russian grandmas. Which, I’m assuming is why you’re reading this review in the first place!
UVB protection is better suited for days out on the beach, long hikes, and uh… preventing skin cancer because it protects against sunburn.
Ideally, you want your sunscreen to have a good mix of both. However, the sad truth is that American sunscreens don’t focus nearly enough on UVA protection. They usually have good SPF ratings, but subpar or terrible PPD ratings.
2. The Aesthetics.
It’s no secret that when a sunscreen does provide adequate coverage it often ends up being goopy and gross, leaving the nastiest tacky feeling behind on the skin. Something, I am personally not a fan of in the slightest.
So really, the struggle comes down to this: finding a sunscreen that provides adequate protection against UVA and UVB rays, without completely feeling like someone rubbed thick dog poop all over your face.
Luckily, the EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46 does really well on both these fronts!Β Hence, why I call it the “American Unicorn.” XD (In other words, it’s rare that a U.S. sunscreen accomplishes both.)
It leaves behind a minimal white cast (more about this in a bit), and has a PA+++ rating!
In case you didn’t know, a quadruple + is the highest possible rating on the PPD scale.Β Not to mention, it also has an SPF factor of 46! You can see why I’m a fan of this sunscreen.Β In short, it hasΒ very good protection against UVA and UVB rays and doesn’t feel ridiculous on the skin.
Alrighty, now let’s look at this formula’s ingredient list which take this puppy to the next level.
Ingredients and Benefits.
Active Ingredients: Zinc Oxide (9%), Octinoxate (7.5%)
Purified Water, Cyclomethicone, Niacinamide, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lactic Acid, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane.
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Zinc Oxide
An inorganic compound and physical sunblock with strong photoprotective properties against UVA rays. (1) It’s considered a “broad-spectrum” ingredient because it blocks and absorbs both UVA and UVB rays. Its mechanisms of action are technically more complicated than that, but the analogy works for our purposes.
Zinc oxide is photostable, well tolerated across many skin types, unlikely to cause irritation, and a good option for rosacea-prone or sensitive skin.
Interestingly enough, it’s also an effective treatment for diaper rash (haha) and may helpΒ hailey-hailey disease (extreme blister-like rashes). (2, 3)
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Octinoxate
The second sun protective ingredient in this formula. This one primarily absorbs UVB rays, but does provide a little protection against UVA rays as well. It isn’t as photostable as zinc oxide, meaning it will degrade overtimeΒ if exposed to excessive sunlight.
There is some concern about the safety of Octinoxate because it can be absorbed into the skin. Many researchers including the experts over at Paula’s choice disagree with this assessment entirely, asserting that decades of scientific evidence suggest otherwise. (4)
However, there is one major caveat with Octinoxate: it’s not environmentally friendly. Research conducted by theΒ Environmental Health Perspectives, has shown Octinoxate unfortunately poses a threat to coral reefs through bleaching. (5)
So if you do decide to buy this, just please keep the environment in mind and don’t use it on days you plan on swimming in the ocean.
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Niacinamide
A.k.a vitamin B3, an antioxidant and all-star ingredient that brightens skin tone, treats hyperpigmentation, increases collagen production, has anti-inflammatory properties, and is more effective than antibiotics in treating acne. It’s one of my absolute favorite ingredients because of how gentle it is and the numerous benefits it provides.
It makes up 5% of this product, and in my opinion takes it to next level because it works synergistically with the sunscreen to treat skin discoloration and combat aging.
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Sodium Hyaluronate
Also known as hyaluronic acid. A very powerful humectant that’s capable of holding 1000 times its water weight. It gives a “plumping effect” and hydrates the skin by binding water to its surface which it draws from the environment and dermis (deeper layer of skin). Research has also shown it significantly speeds up wound healing.
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Tocopheryl Acetate
Better known as vitamin E. This also works synergistically with the sunscreen actives in this formula by providing photoprotection and protecting against oxidative stress. There’s also evidence that vitamin E suppresses tyrosinase, an enzyme that makes melanin go haywire and worsens skin discoloration issues like hyperpigmentation.
Application, Feel, and Scent.
And last but not least, the application test. This makes or breaks a sunscreen in my opinion. Let’s see how it does.
As you can see, it goes on very white initially. It glides and spreads super easily which is nice. Like most physical sunscreens, it takes a little while to fully rub in, but once it does it leaves behind no tacky feeling (a major plus). It’s hard to tell from the third photo, but it does have a minimal white cast once it’s dried.
If you have pale skin this won’t be a problem. However, people of color may find it’s not as cosmetically elegant as they would hope.
It’s pretty lightweight and provides just a tad of hydration. If you have dry skin, this probably won’t be enough. I think it’s best suited for those with normal to oily skin.
To this day, this is one of the only sunscreens that hasn’t made my ridiculously sensitive and acne-prone skin break out.Β EltaMD UV Clear actually markets this sunscreen for those that are breakout-prone, and I couldn’t agree anymore with that assessment.
As far as the scent goes, it smells like rubber floaties. You know, the kind you use to wear before you knew how to swim? I actually don’t mind it at all. It kind of reminds me of childhood to be honest….Β And all the times I NEARLY DROWNED!
Just kidding… sort of.
Summary.
- Ingredients: 5/5
Includes both physical and chemical sunscreen (zinc oxide, octinoxate), in addition to hyaluronic acid and other antioxidants like 5% niacinamide and vitamin E, which makes it an especially good sunscreen for combatting hyperpigmentation and brightening skin tone.
- Benefits: 5/5
Phenomenal for anti-aging and sunburn prevention. It has an SPF of 46, and the highest PPD rating possible (PA+++) meaning it provides great protection against both UVB and UVA rays. A rarity for American sunscreens.
- Application: 3/5
Spreads easily, adds a little hydration, and has no tacky feeling once it’s dried. It does however leave behind a minimal white cast which could be problematic for darker skin tones. Best for normal, oily, combination, or acne-prone skin.
- Packaging: 5/5
Excellent packaging. It comes in bottle with a pump dispenser and a cap.
- Value: 5/5
Great price, and very affordable for the impressive formula.
Overall: 4.6/5 (Recommend!)
A solid sunscreen with amazing photoprotection, and like I mentioned in the beginning of this blog post β is one of theΒ only American sunscreens I’ve enjoyed enough to repurchase, and surprisingly hasn’t made my ridiculously sensitive acne-prone skin breakout.
Welp, that does it for this review! Hope you’ve enjoyed it. π
Cheers,
βf.c.
Tell the world about the American unicorn!
Β
Hey! Just FYI Octinoxate will still seep into the groundwater and end up in the oceans, even if you don’t swim with the sunscreen on. When you shower or wash the suncreen off, the water processing plants can’t filter out that small of a particle, and it will 100% end up back into the oceans. The only way to be environmentally friendly is to not use octinoxate. Otherwise I love this sunscreen, I’m so bummed about it.
Hi, how do you know that it has PA+++ protection since they don’t literally write about it anywhere?
I so wanted to love this sunscreen because of the amazing ingredients, but it always left an extremely shiny layer on my skin, as if it never completely absorbed. I tried it on its own and over Cerave PM, and it never worked out π . I’m tempted to give it another go and possibly pick up the EltaMD AM Therapy moisturizer to use with it. I think Cerave products are giving me the microclogs/congestion that your mentioned in one of your other posts.
Hello! First, THANK YOU for creating this website and for all the information your share here! Really, I just can’t thank you enough. I’m now looking for a sunscreen which wouldn’t clog my pores or cause breakouts on my sensitive acne-prone skin…Do you have any other options (maybe also some Asian ones?) ? Would you recommend rather a physical sunscreen or a chemical one?
Hey. What are EltaMD UV Shield SPF 45 face and body? How do you like that?
Just a heads up, I read a review on the Amazon product listing where a person had emailed Elta. They posted a screenshot of an email reply from Elta advising not to purchase from Amazon or Ebay as resellers aren’t permitted to sell there.
I have tried many sunscreens over the years and I have extremely oily skin. So, I would rather go without sunscreen than with it but now I can see the damage in my neck. So, I have finally found one that I can live with maybe u might like, it’s a gel called Missha all-around safe block aqua sun gel 50+++. I hope it good enough because it took me over 25 years to settle on this one sunscreen for my face and neck. It really feels like I’m wearing nothing at all which is so refreshing.
if you’re interested in saving money maybe try out the blue lizard face sunscreen which also has zinc and octinoxate (8 and 5 % respectively) as active ingredeints. it also has good antioxidants like green tea. I can attest that it’s not greasy or sticky like regular sunscreens.
Hi! I discovered your site a few weeks ago and really appreciate all the hard work and research you put into it. This is really great information! I have been searching for this particular unicorn for years: physical face sunblock that actually moisturizes and doesn’t leave me dry and chalky. I am pale/freckly, have a family history of melanoma, and have crazy dry skin with mild sebhorreic dermatitis. I always, always use sunscreen — and I’m always, always dry and flaky. I believe I’ve tried a sample of this ELTA from my derm, and my dry skin basically laughed at it. Ditto for all the products my dermatologist sister-in-law has recommended. In the name of not having a chalky face (at least for a little while), I am willing to give up some physical sunblock ingredients. Can you think of an Asian product that actually moisturizes?
Thanks so much!
Where do you buy your eltamd sunscreen ? I live in Europe and Amazon is the only website where i can buy it from. But, it seems that there are some fake on amazon ?
Hi there,
Loved this review! I have just started using Elta MD UV Clear, and LOVE it. But…I am wondering, since I live in a very dry climate (Southern California) – will the hyaluronic acid in the ingredients list work against me rather than for me (due to the dry air out here)? I’ve heard that humectants like Hyaluronic acid can be detrimental when used in arid climates, as there’s no water in the air for the skin to absorb…instead it sucks the moisture out of your skin? If so, do you have any recommendations? Should I wear a moisturizer over this? Or look for another sunscreen? Thanks again, this was wonderfully researched!
Laura
Hey, love your super helpful infos and your dedication to explaining skincare for all noobs! THANK you! π
When it comes to SPF, I kind of stay away from chemical filters, first of all because they all seem to be quite shady and suspected of messing with the hormones, or unfriendly with the environment, or or… And also because they “absorb” the UV rays, not block them as the mineral ones do…
This is the main reason why I stuck to Drunk Elephant’s Umbra, did you try it? (it has 20% zinc oxide as its only active ingredient). However, it does make me kind of pale (even more than I usually am) even though it has some pigment, and also leaves a pretty greasy finish π I love the way it spreads and the beneficial ingredients though. I’m hoping they will come up with a better formula soon, or at least with a BB cream, and perhaps a higher SPF…
Hi! Kudos to you for sharing such a personal journey! I give you mad props!! AND your skin transformation is amazing!! I love your website- I am thinking of overhauling my routine, and your posts are so throughly researched, informative, and easy to follow. I’m new to this, and I think I have enough guidance to try out a new night routine, but what is your routine in the morning? Also, are you going to review any sheet masks in the future? Looking forward to more advice from you! Much gratitude!
Hello!
Thank you for the review! I found this to be an extremely helpful read.
I went out and bought this on amazon, and the package says to re apply every 2 hours? Do you recommend doing this? Since the bottle is small and I don’t really want to waste too much of it :p
Hey I bought this sunscreen to help with my hyperpigmentation, and after hearing it was safe for those with Pityrosporum (Malassezia) Folliculitis, I thought it would be perfect. I noticed that the first tim I used it my skin felt dehydrated/dry a few hours after using this sunscreen, and in the evening when I cleansed using the cerave hydrating cleanser, it looked as if it hadn’t all washed off my face. I started using the de la cruz sulfur ointment to help with my spots the next day and used it for roughly 30-40 minutes and also spot treated it. The next day even after using the cerave moistursing cream (in the tub) and then the elta md sunscreen an hour later, my face felt even more dehydrated/dry. My question is, do you think I have a fake elta md sunscreen? It smells really nice (not 100% what rubber floaties smell like here in the UK) like I could almost drink/eat it kind of pleasent smell lol. It’s white, and maybe off white, this is based on the current lighting I have from light bulbs. It’s not runny, but not thick either, kind of kinbetween. Maybe slightly closer to being runny. Could you tell me if this matches the description of the product you are using?
Many thanks!
I tried this sunscreen and my skin got extremely dry and itchy with tiny whiteheads. I think it was the niacinamide. My skin reacts in a similar way to The Ordinary’s Niacinamide and Zinc serum. The only sunscreen that doesn’t cause a reaction is La Roche Posay Anthelios XL Fluid Extreme SPF 60. Probably the Titanium Dioxide. Unfortunately this sunscreen has been discontinued and all other existing sunscreens by LRP make me breakout. Do you have any sunscreen recommendations for my strangely reactive skin?
I suffer horribly from acne (plus, my skin throws in the added horror of being super sensitive). Most SPFs break me out and/or turn my face varying shades of red! This sunscreen looks – and from your review, reads – like a genuine unicorn for skin! I’m really excited to try it, where do you buy it from?
hi π
Are you still using the Cerave AM?
Given that it has oxinate as active ingredient, is it true that it can cause more irritation and/or hyperpigmentation? There have been claims that chemical sunscreens could lead to hyperpigmentation.
Hello. So happy I found your site. Really hoping you will do more sunscreen reviews in the future.
The Elta sunscreen has lactic acid in it??! Surely thatβs not very good?
Here in Australia we have such strict guidelines with our sun protection