Super Easy Hyaluronic Acid Serum Recipe: DIY for Beginners
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Waddup everybody? Prepare yourselves cause today is our first official DIY post. If you were coming into this expecting one of those silly Pinterest recipes, you’re sadly mistaken.
Over here we care about science! That means looking like we’re one of Heisenberg’s BFFs, or as the lovely Acid Queen (owner of Stratia) put it:
“My version of [DIY] skincare is less of the Pinterest, make-a-scrub-out-of-things-in-your-fridge variety, and more of the latex-gloves-and-borosilicate-beakers, my-living-room-looks-like-a-meth-lab variety.”
Lmao. Makes me laugh every time.
Don’t worry though! Today’s recipe is one of the easiest you’ll ever try: a hyaluronic acid serum!
I thought it was only fair I don’t overwhelm newbies who are seriously considering making their own products, by starting them off with something even my dog can make.
If you want to know more about hyaluronic acid, and what it does for skin check out my recent article: Hyaluronic Acid for Skin: Literally EVERYTHING You Need to Know!
To quickly summarize some of the main points, hyaluronic acid is a humectant that moisturizers the skin by holding onto water molecules. This helps prevent transepidermal water loss, or TEWL for short, which is the fancy science way of saying “stopping water from leaving your face!”
Skin with high water content, is skin well-moisturized. To keep your face looking all nice and hydrated, it’s important that we prevent water loss whenever possible. Hyaluronic acid does exactly that.
Additionally, studies have shown that it increases skin elasticity, is great for wound healing, reduces the appearance of wrinkles, and may help treat eczema, facial rosacea, and seborrheic dermatitis. (1)
Let’s get started!
The Recipe.
We only need 3 things!
There are many different “types” of hyaluronic acid. These vary depending on the molecular weight, or “size” of the hyaluronic acid molecule โ something I went into a lot of detail in my hyaluronic acid guide.
In short, hyaluronic acid between 50 โ 1,000 kDa is best for the skin, with ~130 kDa being the sweet spot according to human studies. Anything smaller than 50 kDa and there’s possibility of causing inflammation.
I’ve chosen to useย 1000 kDA for this recipe, which you can get off LotionCrafter. This will give us the nice serum-y texture we’re looking for!
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Distilled Water
It has to be distilled water! No tap water, spring water, filtered water, lemon water etc. YUH GOTTA GET DISTILLED WATER!
This is a non-negotiable. Water is essential to life, and as such, isย the perfect environment for microbes to grow and prosper.
For those of you who are all, “ewww preservatives! Those are cancer-causing chemicals!”
No, they aren’t. You wanna know what’s more dangerous than the minuscule amount of preservative in a product? An unpreserved, bacterially-infested, gonorrhea-causing mess.
Okay, maybe it won’t cause gonorrhea, but you get the point! They are important and mandatory. For reference, check out what happens to an unpreserved cosmetic product after only 8 days!
Don’t be silly. Use em’ preservatives. A favorite of many at home cosmetic brewers (including myself) is Liquid Germall Plus. It’s convenient, super easy to use, effective between pH range 3-8, and has broad-spectrum activity.
The Gadgets You’ll Need.
I’ll split this section up into necessities and “nice-to-haves.” We’ll start with the mandatory stuff.
- 100 mL Borosilicate Beaker (you only need one, but if you plan on venturing into more serious DIY in the future it’s easier to just get a set)
- Digital Scale (this is the one I use)
- Calibration Weight (might not be necessary depending on your scale)
- Pipettes (unless you have extremely precise, to-the-gram-pouring accuracy, you’re gonna need these!)
- 70% Isopropyl Alcohol
- Travel Bottle (or something to store your serum in)
And that’s really it for “necessities.” As for the “nice-to-haves.”
- Alcohol Wipes (more convenient alternative than just plain ole’ alcohol)
- Measuring Spoons (or something to scoop and pour powder with)
The Instructions, Jesse Pinkman!
Alrightly. “LET’S COOK.”โWalter White
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Step #1: Plug everything into Batch Size Calculator.
Head over to wholesalesuppliesplus.com and use their free batch size calculator. I’ll be making a 3 ounce solution with the following quantities / ingredients.
- 98.5% Distilled Water = 83.77 g
- 1% Hyaluronic Acid = 0.85 g
- 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus (Preservative) = 0.43 g
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Step #2: Disinfect your equipment!
Wash your hands, put on some gloves, then wipe down everything you’ll be using with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Let it air dry. For this recipe that includes your beakers and measuring spoons.
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Step #3: Measure out the hyaluronic acid.
Pretty self-explanatory. Put your beaker on the scale and use the tare function (this sets the weight back to 0.00 grams). Now using your measuring spoons, carefully transfer 0.85 grams of hyaluronic acid into the beaker.
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Step #4: Pour your water into the beaker.
Transfer 83.77 grams of distilled water into the beaker with hyaluronic acid. This is where your pipettes come in handy! If you like to live life on the edge, you can try doing this manually. Good luck. :p
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Step #5: Congratulations! You’re a failure.
Woohoo! You’ve just failed your first DIY because hyaluronic acid will not dissolve in water, and now you’re left with a big clumpy mess. Get used to it. It will be one of many!
Just kidding! :p
Hyaluronic acid can hold up to 1000 times its water weight, and you’re about to see that sh*t in action! All you have to do is cover the top of the beaker with foil and let it hydrate. In other words, just leave it alone, come back in about 8 hours, and voila โ you got yourself some pure hyaluronic acid serum! ๐
(Don’t forget to add your preservative at the end.)
Super simple, isn’t it? Can you believe companies actually sell this stuff? For example, the Timeless Hyaluronic Acid Serum, which gets rave reviews. One reviewer actually said about it, “better than botox!” Lmao.
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Step #6: Transfer the serum into a container.
Pour your hyaluronic acid serum into a glass bottle or something similar. Don’t forget to write down the date you made it! Because we used Liquid Germall Plus, it’s good for up to 6 months.
Customize It To Your Liking!
Something really cool about this hyaluronic acid serum is it’s infinitely customizable once you have the serum base! All you have to do is dissolve other water-soluble ingredients into it and BAM.
For example, say you want to add someย niacinamide to help brighten your skin. Simply measure out 4-5% niacinamide by weight using the Batch Size Calculator, and dump it into your hyaluronic acid stock. Mix it until it’s dissolved and you got yourself a simple niacinamide + hyaluronic acid serum.
NOTE: don’t forget to readjust your preservative!
Wanna enhance the effectiveness of niacinamide? Add 2% N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG) to the solution. NAG words synergistically with niacinamide to fight against hyperpigmentation, or the skin discoloration caused by excess melanin.
Itching for some green tea extract? Add a couple drops and your done! Fancy SOMETHING ELSE, do the same thing! So on and so forth.
You can even reduce the thickness of your serum by adding more water! For example, say you wanted to make a 0.2% hyaluronic acid serum. All you have to do is add 20% of this 1% hyaluronic acid stock to 80% water. This will dramatically decrease the viscosity but it’ll remain slightly thicker than water.
And don’t worry, this won’t make hyaluronic acid less effective. Remember that studies have shown as little as 0.1% hyaluronic acid is beneficial for skin.
Final Words.
That does it for this blog post, folks. Let me know if you have any questions!
Warmly,
โf.c.
This is great!!! Pleaseeeeeeeeee do the DIY Urea cream tutorial. Also, where do you buy the ingredients?
Will you be posting a recipe for your urea & ceramide moisturizer? DIY is very attractive considering it’s so hard to find safe products. Thanks for blogging!
So glad I found your blog/posts. So what is the ratio of hyaluronic acid to Liquid Germall Plus? You write “NOTE: donโt forget to readjust your preservative”, but since I am not good in chemistry, I have no idea how much to add on. Can you provide me with a simple ratio to follow? Thank you in advance.
Hello f.c.
Unless I’m missing something, I think I’ve found the problem: the Batch Size Calculator at wholesalesuppliesplus.com is giving the wrong answers. I tried it inputing:
Total Batch Volume = 100g
Ingredient: Water
Amount: 100%
The results should have obviously been 100 g and 100 mL, yet I got 100 g and 104.32 mL
I’m from a Metric System-using country, so these discrepancies just jump at me. I have contacted them so they can fix it. Hope this helps.
Love the way you have kept it so simple for beginners.
Can I add vitamin c powder to this and it will still stay good for 4-6 months?
Hello and thank you for the recipe. I like your scientific approach and I learned something new, like the need for preservatives in cosmetics. I have made hyaluronic acid gel before and after a while it started smelling off even though it was kept in the fridge. I thought it was because I included collagen in the recipe, now I know better. BTW, what do you think about including collagen?
Two questions: you say “…130 kDa being the sweet spot according to human studies.” but “…Iโve chosen to use 1000 kDA for this recipe,” Why did you choose the 1000 kDa instead of 110 kDa? http://www.lotioncrafter.com/hyaluronic-acid-elmw.html
I have trouble understanding your calculations: it says that 2.96 fl oz are equivalent to 87.39 mL and 83.77 g, however, conversion tables show 2.96 fl oz = 87.55 mL and 1 mL of distilled water is by definition 1 g in the metric system. Could you please clarify that?
Again, thank you very much for the valuable information.
I don’t know why I have NEVER ventured into doing these things myself. I literally work in a research lab for a TiO2 company. I have all the equipment necessary to do any DIY in a small of large batch. This lotion crafter website might be my new “Sephora” LOL
Iโm stuck at the part that says add the niacinamide at 4%. How many grams should I add exactly?
Hi FC! I recently discovered your blog. You have some amazing tips! Thank you for sharing them with us! I already have a hyaluronic serum but this looks like a cool alternative.
Off topic, but I was wondering if you would be willing to give me some general advice. I have hard white sebum plugs coming out of every pore it seems. Sometimes they get inflamed though thankfully usually not, but because of them my skin has horrible and flaky and I have tiny raised white bumps filled with hard stuff all over my face. Sometimes they get big enough that I can just easily scratch them off, but I don’t want to have to do that? Do you have any advice? It’s driving me nuts. I wonder if I overexfoliated using Drunk Elephant and Stridex over the last month, do right now I just use Neutrogena Ultra Gentle Cleanser, Acanya, and Hyaluronic serum from Topix, and EltaMD PM therapy. I’m thinking of getting a Clarisonic. If possible I would love some advice because my confidence is completely shot right now. Thanks!
“I need to know her dietary habits, skincare routine, levels of happiness, how many children she had etc.”
I have discreetly interviewed her, asking her how she looks so vibrant, happy and youthful at her age. she says ” That’s a nice question…Chad says its genes but I think it’s not all of it. Not drinking & smoking, diet, lots of sleep…can’t say it’s no stress cuz I’ve had lots of that.”
“but I’m happy now and I think that’s part of it.”
“confident women who feel good about themselves are more attractive”
and lastly ” being positive and choosing to see the good in others”
She had two kids, and I know she uses Cerave PM as I gave her mine and she loves it. I felt to weird asking her skincare routine also but when I visit her I will ask her and update:) She is prone to dryness and cheek redness same as me so I bet its quite gentle.
Some of my reflections about her:
She cut sugar out in 2003 and rarely has even a bit. She doesn’t eat diary except probiotic yogurt and cheese on occasion.
I know she eats lots of kale, fish, chicken, fruit, sweet potatoes. She makes her own homemade treats with dried fruit and honey/molasses/maple syrup as a sweetener and only buys sprouted whole grain breads!
She’s never been drunk or smoked cigarettes/weed in her entire life, but she has a beer or glass of wine on weekends because she says balance/enjoying life is very important.
https://www.bulkactives.com/product/product/sodium-ascorbyl-phosphate-sap.html
I use this!
Hi f.c. what did you study in tech school/college/univ???? I am curious about it now :p
Awesomeness this is FC ๐
Thank you for posting this! I just made my own mineral oil cleanser last night based on your guide and it actually worked so I’m so excited to try this!!
I had my first proper foray into DIY about a week ago. I tried making a gluconolactone toner with a chamomile water hydrolat (and a preservative, obviously). I let it sit for a few hours after the gluconolactone powder dissolved, but when I smelled it, it had a sour, somewhat vinegary scent. I tested the pH and it was as low as around 1.6. So I freaked out and dumped it all down the drain, haha. I actually had sodium bicarbonate to adjust the pH but didn’t actually try it, because pH adjustment seems a stage I’m not yet ready for. Thank god I was prudent enough to get a digital pH tester and not just end up putting something so strongly acidic on my face.
I’ve heard that using Hyaluronic acid in a dry weather will actually dry out your skin instead of moisturizing it. Is there any truth to this statement or is it just a myth?
I’ve been using Hyaluronic Acid for a while. So far I am very pleased with the Lady Soma Renewal Serum (which contains hyaluronic acid) with it. No funky smell or stickiness. I have a combination skin type: dry and oily in t-zone area. My trick is to apply when my face is still wet when it feels really dry cause of the dry weather in California or apply right before.
It helps my skin hydrated better this way without breaking-outs.
Oh my goodness I made this today with hyaluronic acid, some nag, niacinamide and a little licorice root extract (and preservative, duh). I’m already in love with the way it feels on my skin! I’m so glad I found your blog a week ago. It’s seriously changed my life! Thank you so much for all the awesome work you do for us to learn fun science things ๐
Now all I want to do is research this kinda shit. I was on two rounds of accutane growing up and hated not understanding my skin. Youโre the man.
Hello,
Thank you for the recipe.
I was wondering how to make a hyaluronic acid gel. Similar to the Hada Labo Tokyo
Skin Plumping Gel Cream I won’t buy the Hada Labo because it isn’t cruelty free and contains methylisothiazolinone.
Regards,
Angela
Hi , what an informative post . I plan to make it over the weekend . Just one question , I am from India and I use Iscagard Peg as my perservative which is 0.4 – 1 % usage in all skin care products . So I plan to use 0.5 % of preservative in my HA serum . Just wanted to know if its ok .