Differin Gel Review: Everything You Need to Know About Adapalene
Kinda late to the party, but WOHOO! Differin has officially been approved for over the counter use in #Amurica. “It’s about time the peasants get a new acne medication,” says the FDA.
To celebrate this wondrous occasion I thought I’d do a differin review…. or more like OVERVIEW since we will literally be going over everything you need to know. Let’s get started!
Table of Contents
What is Differin? How Does it Work?
Differin Gel (adapalene 0.1%) is the first and only retinoid available OTC for the treatment of acne. (1) A retinoid is simply a derivative of vitamin A. The two most popular being tretinoin, an anti-aging all star known widely by it’s brand name Retin-A, and Accutane (isotretinoin) — an oral prescription drug for severe cases of acne.
Retinoids like Differin work by regulating epithelial cell growth. In other words, they target the beginning of the cell cycle (not the end). This is why it’s crucial you stick with them! They work on the deeper layers of skin by “reorganizing” the way the cells grow, which eventually leads to healthier, brighter skin that’s less prone to clogging.
Your chemical exfoliants on other hand (e.g. glycolic and salicylic acid), work at the end of the cell cycle. Something that makes them more likely to damage skin by excessively thinning the stratum corneum (i.e. over-exfoliation).
This can show up in a lot of different ways. For me it means dull, glassy, dehydrated, and fragile looking skin. Geo from Beautiful with Brains described it best by saying, “your skin becomes so thin, it’s practically transparent. You can actually see what’s under it.”
Types of Retinoids.
There are 3 generations of retinoids, each categorized by its time of discovery. These include:
- 1st generation = retinol, retinal, tretinoin (Retin-A), isotretinoin (Accutane), and alitretinoin.
- 2nd generation = etretinate, acitretin.
- 3rd generation = adapalene (Differin), bexarotene, and tazarotene.
The demand for newer generations of retinoids was motivated by scientists trying to find less irritating alternatives to some of the earlier versions. It’s no secret that using stuff like tretinoin is irritating as hell. This makes people less likely to stick with it, which is crucial for getting its full benefits.
And that’s where adapalene comes in (a.k.a differin’s active ingredient)! It’s supposed to be a less irritating alternative to harsher retinoids, without compromising effectiveness. This has many people wondering….
Differin vs Retin-A: Which is Better? A Comparison of Benefits.
It depends on what you’re after. If we’re talking straight anti-aging then Retin-A is probably better. I only say “probably” because there isn’t much research on differin for wrinkles and all that jazz.
However, the stuff that’s out there looks promising. For example, one study found that using differin (0.3% adapalene) for 6 months significantly reduced wrinkles. (2) To quote the research paper itself:
“There were significant improvements in clinical grading of wrinkles (p < 0.01) with a reduction in mean severity score of 40% in forehead wrinkles, 52% in periorbital wrinkles, and 29% in perioral wrinkles. Melanin, transepidermal water loss, and hydration were improved, as were general skin tone and the number of wrinkles (p < 0.05)”
Not to mention, adapalene can reduce atrophic acne scarring in 0.3% concentration meaning it increases collagen production (also good for wrinkles). (3)
In terms of treating acne, there’s no doubt that differin works better than Retin-A. It reduces total acne count faster, has improved local tolerability (i.e. not as irritating — less itching, burning, redness), and has better light stability! (4)
Tretinoin is notorious for being an unstable little sissy that degrades in light. This is less a problem with differiin. It should still be used at night though!
And for those wondering — yes, differin is also an effective treatment for hyperpigmentation, or the dark spots left behind from acne. (2, 5)
How Long Does Differin Take to Work? Differin Side Effects.
Like reddit user rainingramen said, “[Differin] bestows its rewards only to those who are patient and committed to Lord Retinoid.” Indeed, this stuff was meant for the long haul. If you’re an impulsive Isabelle or serial monogamist — just stop reading this and leave now. Differin is like that guy or gal looking for commitment, so none of this tinder business!
Studies have shown that differin reduces acne by about 60% across all participates after 3 months of daily use. (4) Here’s a visual of what that looks like with a sample size of 582 patients. 
Source: Millikan LE. “Pivotal clinical trials of adapalene in the treatment of acne.” Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology.” 2001;15 Suppl 3:19-22.
From the graph above you’ll notice there’s a significant reduction in acne (~30%) within a week! I definitely noticed this myself (more about that later), but unfortunately it ain’t all pretty sunshine and rainbows forever.
Most people have a slight worsening of acne during the second week. This happens because that’s the peak period of irritation, known to many as the dreaded “purging phase” when clogged pores start surfacing and the skin gets easily inflamed.
Rest assured though, once you get past that 2nd week it’s just smooth sailing until the end of time. 🙂 Matter of fact, one study showed that improvements to the skin were still being made after 9 months of daily use! (6)
And that folks is why they say differin rewards those with patience! Stick with it and you’re practically guaranteed to have clear beautiful skin.
Differin Side Effects. How to Reduce its Irritation.
Despite adapalene being a gentler retinoid, it can still be pretty irritated. Like a mentioned above, the first few weeks on differin are the hardest because that’s the peak period of irritation. You will likely experience itchy, red, dry skin, and worsening of acne. But just remember to STICK WITH IT!
Adapalene also increases your sensitivity to the sun by thinning the stratum corneum, so it’s really important that you follow up with a sunscreen! I like to use the EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46. It’s safe for acne-prone skin, rosacea, and won’t aggravate malassezia induced skin conditions like seborrheic dermatitis, pityrosporum folliculitis, and eczema.
But more importantly it has 5% niacinamide, a vitamin and antioxidant that’s great for anti-aging, fading discoloration, fighting acne, and brightening skin. Studies have also shown that niacinamide reduces the irritation of retinoids, (7) so it’s a good companion to have should you decide to try differin.
And while we’re on the subject of reducing irritation, should you notice it’s too much for you skin reduce the frequency to every other day until you build up more tolerance. Some people also like to apply differin after moisturizer as this provides a buffer and reduces irritation, and only slightly decreases it’s effectiveness (if at all).
How to Use Differin?
You can only use a pea-sized amount or less once a day! We’re talking this much OR LESS.
I know. I know. You’re probably having the same thought I did: “How the hell am I supposed to spread that much across my entire face?”
I’ll be honest, it’s kinda hard. But I think that’s because I have a big head… What I found works best is carefully dabbing it in tiny tiny pieces all across the face, then spreading it evenly. It’s glides more easily if you apply moisturizer first.
I did this a couple nights and it worked well. But I’m trying to get the whole shebang here, so I’m mostly applying it to dry skin and moisturizing afterward.
Unlike tretinoin, you don’t have to wait 20-30 minutes after cleansing to make sure your skin is fully dry before applying.
One split face study with 22 patients found that it made no difference whether adapalene was applied directly or 20-30 minutes after cleansing (8) — with the exception of one poor sucker whose face it did irritate, so for our purposes we’ll say waiting 20-30 minutes is unnecessary 95% of the time.
If you want to be extra extra safe, go ahead and wait those 20-30 minutes.
My Experience with Differin.
Alrighty. Now to talk about my 2 week long experience with this stuff. “Wait, what?? 2 weeks?!?!” I can hear you already.
Yes, I’ve only used this stuff for about 2 weeks BUT I plan on using it a full 3 months and will update here periodically. I have dropped everything from my routine except EltaMD AM Therapy and EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46. If all goes well I’ll start incorporating things back in after a couple months. Consider this the “differin experiment.”
I want to give it a full shot at working its magic before ruling it out. And quite frankly, mixing it with other actives might decrease its overall effectiveness by increasing my skin’s sensitivity.
For whatever it’s worth, here are the reasons I decided to drop all my other chemical exfoliants in favor of differin.
- I still have minor atrophic scars on my cheek that I wish weren’t there. Given that adapalene helps acne scars in 0.3% concentration, I figure it might help.
- It most likely has anti-aging benefits.
- It has good tolerability in cases of adult acne. Yay because I’m 24 and have sensitive acne-prone skin!
- Differin works by targeting the start of the cell cycle as opposed to the end. This means there’s less potential to over-exfoliate, damage the stratum corneum, and end up with “dull and tired” looking skin. Something I’ve experienced all too often with chemical exfoliants. -___-
- Alright, let’s be real…. the quirky Dr. Dray may have convinced me to give it a go. She’s a dermatologist who’s been vlogging about her differin experience for the past 2 months. :p
With that said, I will be updating y’all every couple weeks. We’ll officially conclude this review three months from now. Let’s get started.
- Week 1 = the first three days went splendidly! I literally noticed a difference right away. My pores looked smaller, and the blackheads/sebaceous filaments on and around my nose began disappearing. I’m singing the praises of LORD DIFFERIN! 😀
- Week 2 = Sigh. Just like those studies said would happen, my face is getting irritated. It’s like scientific clockwork. I’m sad to report that I actually broke out too. :/ First time in what feels like several months. Can’t pretend like I’m not disappointed about this, but i’m sticking with it because I know this is just temporary irritation (hopefully). And the itches! God my skin itches! SOMEONE HAAAAALP.
- Week 3 + 4 = the past two weeks have been meh. On the bright side the breakouts on my chin have subsided. The only problem is I’m now getting clogged pores on my forehead and closed comedones on my upper cheeks. It’s almost as if differin isn’t decongesting the surface of my skin fast enough compared to salicylic acid. I still feel very much parched and irritated, especially by the end of the day. I’m not freaking out about it though, I more or less expected to be here.
NOTE: I also added CeraVe Healing Ointment at night during week 4. Ian, a reader of the blog, reminded me that this has ceramides, cholesterol, phytosphingosine, and hyaluronic acid in it, which are all natural parts of the skin that help restore its barrier function.
You can essentially consider CeraVe Healing Ointment like a beefed up version of Aquaphor or Vaseline. It’s a fantastic occlusive that locks in the moisture in skin when used as the last step in your routine.
- Weeks 5 + 6 = Unfortunately, some of the closed comedones on my cheek became full blown inflammatory lesions. I was initially worried about this because I scar very easily there, but I found a study that showed Epiduo gel (0.1% Adapalene + 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide) reduces the risk of atrophic scar formation, whereas BP alone does not. This has definitely been true for me, and I swear I’m noticing a marked improvement in the old indented scars I have, which is making me feel very optimistic about adapalene. Were it not for this fact, I probably would have stopped using it by now.
- Weeks 7 + 8 = All the breakouts I got the past 2 weeks finally subsided, but they left behind some PIE marks (red acne scars). I still have some congestion around my forehead and nose, but I’m 95% positive this was because my moisturizer, so I’ve gone full blown DIY and formulated a urea facial lotion without fatty alcohols and esters. It’s only been a couple days, but it is working astonishingly well!
- Week 9 + 10 = Not much to update here. Skin is clear, with the exception of the blackheads on my nose. These things are the bane of my existence! -__- The minor congestion on my forehead is finally going away. I don’t want to repeat myself but…. I SWEAR DIFFERIN IS ACTUALLY HELPING ME WITH MY ATROPHIC ACNE SCARS AND HOLY SH*T THAT MAKES ME SO F*CKING HAPPY! That is all for this week. 🙂 If everything keeps going as planned, I will finally introduce some BHA into my routine after week 12! Yippieeeee!
- Week 11 + 12 = I’ve come to the 3 month mark and I have to admit…. I think differin is pretty overrated. In my opinion, there are far better ways to go about treating acne. If it weren’t for the fact that it’s making my skin more taut and somewhat helping my atrophic acne scars, I would’ve stopped using it long ago.
Hope you’ve enjoyed this Differin Gel (adapalene 0.1%) overview / review!
Cheers,
—f.c.
Welcome to the Differin club!
The dryness of the first few weeks can be pretty unbearable. I remember I had a few “false starts” with it where I’d give up using it after just a few days, and then stashed the tube away, only to find it some weeks later and decide to try it again. Rinse, repeat. 😛 But eventually I stuck with it and am glad I did — it’s been about 5 months of regular use now.
I can see how the spreadability would be an issue. I’ve managed to circumvent that because, as mentioned previously, I mix it with Skinoren gel. But, just like with any retinoid, I think it’s better to apply it to the face in a controlled manner, by dabbing it on parts where the skin is hardier and avoiding the more sensitive areas (in my case, the upper cheeks), as opposed to just spreading around evenly like you would a moisturiser.
As you said, even though Differin works faster than tretinoin, you’re still in it for the long haul. This is likely the main reason why a lot of online reviews on it are so mixed — people just don’t stick with it long enough. That’s why I think it’s far better used in combination than as a monotherapy, at least until you achieve consistent clearance (though obviously those with more sensitive skin need to be wary about combining it with other actives). That said, the fact that it has the unrivalled anti-ageing benefits of a retinoid means it makes all the more sense to keep it in regular use as maintenance.
Also, like with other retinoids, niacinamide is your friend. Using a retinoid with a niacinamide product has been proven to increase the retinoid’s efficacy and minimise its irritation. That’s why I always follow up with Cerave PM.
YES. I was hoping you’d comment on this post haha. :p I have entered the first day of week 3. Damn… my face is irritated and red. I have a couple tiny tiny whiteheads on my forehead and upper cheeks too. ARGH. But it seems like they are dying down and that should be the last of them (hopefully).
I’m positive this was an “irritation breakout.” Also yeah, the flakey skin is a little unbearable right now. During week 2 it built up and caused some clogging around my chin.
Totally forgot niacinamide has been shown to reduce the irritation of retinoids. THANK GOD I’m using EltaMD (has niacinamide in it). I’m powering through it though! Here I come anti-aging maintenance routine! :p
Let me get this straight, so you’re using differin, azelaic acid, and salicylic acid? Holy shit! You have some tough skin! Mine’s a little wimp and would die if I tried all of that at the same time haha. I’m hoping I can eventually add my Nufountain 20% ascorbic acid back in though. I was enjoying that very much.
You were using the COSRX BHA before, right? So did you stop that cold turkey and then start using Differin daily instead? I ask because it’s generally advisable that you introduce new actives in gradually — although judging from the “Start Slowly” mantra all over your blog I’m probably preaching to the choir here. 😛
When I started using Differin, I only used it one night in the first week, and worked my way up to every-other-night use from there. On the nights I didn’t use it, I used Skinoren gel, which I had already been using for more than 6 months so my skin was very accustomed to it. So for a while I would alternate nights between Differin and Skinoren, until eventually I started mixing them together, at which point I noticed no additional irritation from the combination compared to using either alone.
I’ve heard of some people working up to nightly use of tretinoin so gradually that it took them as long as a year, if not more, to reach that point. I know adapalene is more tolerable than tretinoin, but it just shows the amount of caution people treat retinoids compared to other topical treatments, because of their risk of irritation.
So if you’re encountering as much irritation as you describe, I’d suggest using Differin less frequently and slowly build up to it. But that’s probably already occurred to you.
Yea, using adapalene, azelaic acid, and salicylic acid does seem like a lot. I use Differin & Skinoren nightly, and the Paula’s Choice Regular Strength BHA every other morning. I’m surprised my skin has managed it — two reasons might be because a.) I only introduced the BHA since I’ve been in Belize, where the climate is very humid, so the dryness is less pronounced. and b.) the Paula’s Choice Regular Strength BHA has some moisturising and anti-irritant ingredients in it to help counteract the dryness of the salicylic acid. I doubt I’d be able to maintain this exact routine once I return to Europe. That said, I intend to try out the COSRX BHA (thanks to your glowing review) to replace the PC one, since it seems the COSRX one carries even less risk of dryness and irritation thanks to its use of betaine salicylate instead of salicylic acid. So if I end up using that I might still be able to stick with the routine I have now, because I’ll have an even gentler BHA. If not, then I’ll probably end up axing the BHA altogether.
Haha about that… yes, I dropped (cold turkey) both COSRX and the Nufountain vitamin C serum I was using. In hindsight, it wasn’t the best decision I’ve made, but I’m impulsive and stubborn. Yesterday I applied Differin after moisturizer (do this on days where my skin feels super parched). If the irritation doesn’t go down by week 3.5ish, then I’ll think about dialing it back to every other day but uh… I think my skin can handle. Maybe?
What is it they say though? “Do as I say, not as I do.” Yeah, that!
Oh nice! So you’re in Belize now? :p Continuing on your travel adventures, I see? When you try COSRX let me know how it goes!
EDIT TO ADD: Did you see this lady’s before and afters? They’re in the comments. She was on tret, but the difference is incredible! Makes me that much more excited to stick with Adapalene. 😀
Ahaha, I’m also guilty of being impulsive sometimes. I know I should patch-test and ease my way into new products but sometimes I just go right into it (and pay for my mistake). For instance I trialled the La Roche Posay Effaclar Duo + (EU version) a couple months ago without patch-testing first and it broke me out severely. I was hopeful about it because it uses LHA, and therefore thought it would be a gentler alternative to a regular salicylic acid exfoliant, but for whatever incomprehensible reason it also includes a few highly comedogenic ingredients (e.g. myristyl myristate — my past experience with myristates has not been pretty). I powered through it for over a month but eventually gave up because it made my face so angry that it became clear that it wasn’t just a purge.
Coincidentally I got my COSRX BHA in the post just yesterday. I’m going to try it tonight and let you know my impressions after using it for a while. I’ve decided to tweak my routine so that I only use actives at night, and I’ll alternate nightly between the Differin/Skinoren combo and the COSRX BHA. I like the idea of putting as little as possible on my face in the morning, aside from sunscreen.
Belize is actually my homeland! I grew up here, but I moved to England many years ago since my family has roots there as well. I decided to come back to Belize for a while since I haven’t spent much time here since I moved (also, because it makes for a pleasant escape from the dreary winters over there, heh).
Those before and after photos are indeed remarkable. I think every tube containing a retinoid should bear the inscription, “Good things come to those who wait.” 😛
Hi! Happy to follow along with you! I’ve been battling closed comedones on my chin for five years (with the occasional inflamed pimple after attempts at extraction) It seemed to start about a year after moving from a very humid climate to California right at the start of the drought. 🙁 I continued to treat my skin as very oily as I felt it had always been, but acne hadn’t been a problem since my late teens (32 now!). I suppose I became very dehydrated along the way and killed my barrier. Enter the CCs! I’d never dealt with these before, even in my teen years. I’ve tried what I feel to be just about “everything” BHA, AHA, azelaic acid (gave up on that kinda soon), BP, etc. I’m not into the idea of going to a dermatologist because past experiences were nothing but frustrating.
I’ve recently become interested in K beauty and it’s emphasis on healing/hydrating the skin… After incorporating some key products into my routine (oil cleansing, gentle cleanser, MOISTURIZER for the first time ever), my tone is SO much brighter/more even, but the CCs remain.
I was thrilled to find Differin 0.1 on the shelf in CVS and decided to give it a go. It’s been 3 weeks. I started out using it every 4th night as I’m very prone to perioral dermatitis and feeling a little irritated at the corners of my mouth. I’m getting some tiny pustules in various places along my chin as expected. What I didn’t expect was for a whole new group of CCs (several dozen!) to crop up on my cheeks. From what I’d read, the IB is likely to be inflammatory. What do you think about in increase in CCs in new places in the first several weeks of use? Would his indicate that I’m reacting badly? I’m feeling a bit desperate and discouraged! I’m looking forward to reading about your experience.
-Mickayla
Hey Mickayla!
I’m from California too, so I get you about the stupid dry weather haha. It’s good that you went into K-beauty, as that is the best way to defeat dehydrated skin IMO. Given that differin also works against keratosis pilaris, I have to say that I think it should only help your closed comedones. My suspicion is that the differin is drying out your skin too much and causing them to crop up. Isn’t this what you said happened when you moved to CA? Maybe try incorporating an extra layer of hydration into your routine, or reduce the differin to every other day.
I’m just a little cautious of giving advice though, because I don’t want to make things worse for you. :/ It’s really hard to say whether it’s a reaction or not. I’ve developed a couple closed comedones as well (on my forehead though), but for the most part I think these were going to crop up anyway (maybe?). This isn’t the best advice, but if you scrutinize your face very closely in a mirror you can generally tell if something is already there or not. That’s how I try to tell if I’m reacting or simply “purging.”
Ah, sorry I can’t be of any more help here. But keep us updated! How long have you been on Differin now?
I’m into week four now! I began by applying every fourth night during the first 2 weeks, then increased to every other night in the third week, and have been applying every night since the start of this week. I may have progressed a little too quickly. I’m prone to eczema, so I could be asking for trouble there. I’m not feeling crazy dry, just a little itchy in places. I may scale back if things don’t calm down a bit after the weekend. I’ve been moisturizing religiously with COSRX oil-free ultra moisturizing lotion… I was also using their snail mucin for a bit in hopes of kicking up the hydration a notch, but I cut that out after experiencing a little irritation. I dug around and found a couple threads that mentioned a possible link between snail mucin sensitivity and dust mite allergy (which I definitely have!). Eek. Will read more on that and maaaaybe try again sometime. So for now, I’m adding in the J. ONE jelly pack (any experience with this?). I’ll also phase my hydrating toner (Klairs supple preparation toner) back in at the start of next week. Hoping that helps. I’ll keep you posted!
Outta curiosity, how have you been liking the COSRX oil-free moisturizer? It sounds like you’re doing it the right way. In other words, starting differin slowly and building your way up. I rather impulsively started applying it once daily, and now I’m facing the consequences. Week 3 has been pretty rough thus far.
I have not tried that sleeping pack, but it wouldn’t be a bad idea. Anything that’s gonna add some hydration back into your routine is good protocol. And please do keep us all updated!
We can be differin buddies given our similar timelines! 😀 :p
I was really enjoying the COSRX moisturizer pre Differin. The texture is great, it seems to be absorbed well, and I felt it was keeping my skin hydrated without leaving me oily like most creams do.
I went ahead and shelved it a few days ago, sadly. The itchy patches I’ve been getting since week 2 of Differin are REALLY irritated after applying the moisturizer. They would become red, raised and super itchy! I believe I saw tea tree oil low on the ingredient list, but it may be enough to irritate my skin while it’s feeling super sensitive. I’m going to try to reincorporate it once I’m a little further along and my face has adjusted to the Differin.
For the time being, I’ll just be using my moisturizing toner, the J One Jelly pack (which is actually meant to be used daytime to hydrate/prime but works well as a sleeping pack, too!), and SPF. I have the I’m From Honey Mask and have used it once a week to calm things a little bit. Let me know if you have any suggestions and gentle/hydrating moisturizers I may be able to add in!
Hello my friend, you are doing a great job here..
Due to acne i do have a lot of red marks, pih, pie on my face and i also get breakouts on my chin area..
I cleared up because of differin which i am using now for 9month i quess. I want to include bha’s in my skincareroutine.. My Skin does feel really good when i touch it and besides a few pimples my Skin FEELS flawless besides some light scarring.. But there is a lot of redness and pih, pie as i said so i wanted to try the BHA.
Everybody is saying not to use them both, because they do cause a lot of Irritation. What are your thoughts?
My current Routine:
AM:
Cerave Cleanser
BHA Corx
Cerave Moisturizer + SPF
PM:
Cerave Cleanser
Differin
Moisturizer
Great to hear differin is working wonders for you! I hope I have the same luck with it a couple months down the road because it is mainly irritating for me right now. How long were you on it before the irritation subsided and you started noticing it working?
If you’ve been on differin for 9 months it should be completely OK to add the Cosrx BHA. Just make sure to introduce it slowly (once or twice a week), and go up from there as tolerated, meaning you dial it back if you notice any signs of irritation creeping in. As long as your skin feels good and isn’t dry, itchy, red then it’s okay to use BHA in the morning.
Ive been using this for atleast two and a half months, its not bad. I figure it might take longer than 3-4 mnths to see any difference in my PIH, since I am african american. I have paired it with The Ordinary 10% Naicidimide and Zinc 1%. I have seen brightening of my over all complexion, and Ive been using sunscreen religiously. I have oily skin, but after starting my skin is quite combo now. It has dried the area around my mouth quite significantly, it flakes like hell even under my make up. I find my self having to tap water on it at work just to subside it. And I work in retail. And that area burns more when I apply my moisturiser and sunscreen. But Vaseline helps a bunch. I plan to follow through for the next three months, and see if i helps.
Hi there, Rheiel! Thanks for sharing your experience. I’ve yet to try any of the ordinary products, but the niacinamide serum is definitely one on my “to buy” list. I agree with you. Give it at least 3 months before ruling it out. That’s what I’m gonna do too. We can be differin buddies! Good luck. 😀
Hey man, how’s the Differin Experiment been treating you? Curious to hear of any updates.
Sup, Ian? Shoot, I forgot to update this. I’ve been pretty busy trying to finish that malassezia post, and the past few days at home have been stressful. My grandma was discharged from the hospital and is staying with us. I don’t want to be grim, but I don’t think she has much time left….
Quick update: all the inflammatory breakouts I got finally subsided. They left behind some lame ass PIE marks though. The good news is that they didn’t scar atrophically, which was to be expected given that Epiduo gel (0.1% Adapalene + 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide) reduces the risk of atrophic scar formation, whereas BP alone does not. And I swear to jesus that adapalene is helping with the scars I already have on my cheeks! Very very stoked about that. Were it not for this fact, I probably would have stopped using it because I find that it is less effective than salicylic acid at decongesting the surface of my skin. Which reminds me….
I’ve come to the realize that CeraVe PM and EltaMD AM were causing me micro-congestion all this time, only I didn’t know this because I was keeping it at bay with keratolytics (mostly urea, salicylic acid). This will make more sense when you read the “fungal acne” post. But differin has kinda been a YUUUUGE epiphany for me because it wasn’t masking the problem as much as the other active ingredients were, if that makes sense.
Sooooo….. long story short, I’ve gotten SUPER into DIY the past week to create a 100% malassezia-compatible moisturizer. For practice, I duped CeraVe PM (photos here and here; actual CeraVE PM is on top, my dupe is on the bottom). Then I duped it again without any esters or fatty alcohols. Quick note: fatty alcohols DO NOT feed malassezia, ceramides however… well, let’s just say I found some evidence that’s making me second guess them. I discuss this in the upcoming post.
And lastly, I made two urea moisturizers both without fatty alcohols and esters, but one of them has ceramides the other does not. I’m testing to see if ceramides are a culprit. And so far, I gotta say I’m f*cking blown away with the ceramide-free version. Here’s a photo of it. My face feels less irritated, red, micro-congestion is dying down super quickly etc.
Okay, I said quick update haha :p guess that wasn’t so quick. If things keep going at this pace with the current urea moisturizer I’ll probably make a blog post about how to make it yourself.
By the way, how has COSRX BHA been going for you?
Aw man, sorry to hear about your grandmother. 🙁 Hope your family is handling it as well as possible, though that kind of situation is obviously never easy.
I suspected Differin wouldn’t do as good a job at decongesting the skin as your BHA, or at the very least, not as quickly as a BHA can, since retinoids work their magic deeper below the surface. Maybe from longer term use one would begin to notice improvement in that regard, but we’re talking about a timeframe of at least a few months, whereas hydroxy acids work within weeks or even days. So maybe you’ll benefit if you stick with it for the long haul.
Interesting revelations — I’m not surprised that you noticed congestion from Cerave PM, considering many people report that, but I thought EltaMD AM had been quite a find for you. I’m curious what the culprits in its formulation would be? Since for the Cerave PM many point fingers at the fatty alcohols, whereas EltaMD AM lacks them.
That’s great that you’ve gotten into DIY and had success with it! From our previous discussions you probably already know that I’m quite interested in this myself, though haven’t quite taken the plunge yet. Would be encouraging to hear more about it — it might inspire me to go for it, too, considering our similar sensitivities. For now, I’m just trying a method of layering up with very light moisturisers, like toners and gels without any fatty alcohols.
I’m curious about why you’re suspicious about ceramides. They’re always hailed as great ingredients when it comes to dermatitic skin, since it involves a compromised skin barrier, so I’ve always had the mindset that they’re an ingredient to look for, not to avoid. But it’s not the only ingredient that’s helpful for skin barrier repair — as you mention, urea is excellent for that too, and I suppose particularly so for conditions that involve some form of hyper-keratinisation, as seborrheic dermatitis definitely does.
Ah, the COSRX BHA. Well after a couple of months of using it, I’m sad to report that my skin isn’t faring so well with it. It seems quite incomprehensible, but I’ve done fine with using the Paula’s Choice Regular Strength BHA (note: not her Extra Strength, which was awful for me), and I expected the COSRX BHA to be even gentler than that, given its use of betaine salicylate instead of salicylic acid. But every time I’ve used it, my skin has become incredibly dry, to the point that I sometimes feel the need to get out of bed in the middle of the night to put on more moisturiser. This is despite the fact that I’ve started slowly with it, just once or twice a week. To be fair, I’m already using the Differin-Skinoren combo on nights I didn’t use the BHA, so perhaps I already reached the limit of actives that my skin can handle. So the question is whether or not I’m willing to part with Differin or Skinoren, or both, to use a BHA, and I can’t really decide, ha. So I’ve just tucked the BHA away and may or may not use it ever again.
Forgot to mention, it’s funny that you talk about urea, considering my search for a urea moisturiser a while back was what first brought me to your blog (specifically, your post about the Gold Bond Restoring Lotion — which I concluded was too rich and fragrant for my face, but it does make a great body lotion).
I compiled a very short list of simple moisturisers that I believe are both non-comedogenic and “Malassezia-proof”. You can imagine it’s quite a short list given these criteria. 😛 But one of them was the Eucerin 5% Urea Face Cream, because from my research higher-strength urea seemed promising thanks to its keratolytic, moisturising, and skin barrier repairing properties. In this sense it seemed an effective yet gentler alternative to hydroxy acids to address the hyper-keratinisation typically associated with seb derm.
It does contain a high amount of a fatty alcohol (cetyl alcohol) and a couple esters (like glyceryl stearate), so I basically have it on my “second tier” of moisturisers to try since I was still uncertain whether these are problematic (“first tier” being moisturisers that should be completely harmless, like Sebamed Clear Face Gel). Some websites also mention that it contains lanolin alcohol, but I can confirm that its new formulation doesn’t, because I actually have a tube of it that I bought a few months ago but just haven’t used, ha.
If your positive results from your DIY urea moisturiser continue, I might try out the Eucerin one at some point. Or, well, even try out some DIY myself, but in terms of actually concocting a lotion I don’t think I’m quite there yet — I had simpler and less daunting ideas in mind, like toners and serums.
When when when 😀
Very curious to see the DIY urea cream blog post F.C. I only have access to the Sebamed urea cream but its so damn expensive.
I’m still tweaking the formula! Haha. I’m thinking of starting an instagram page to post all my DIY concoction stuff. I ended up making 9 different versions and I think I finally nailed it down. I was thinking of making my first DIY post on something simple like an alcohol-free salicylic acid exfoliant toner. We shall see, I still got to experiment a bit before I feel comfortable posting recipes and stuff. Thanks for the interest though! 😀
Very much looking forward to the DIYs post F.C. 🙂
Pls post them here too . Im an alien who has shut down my Insta 😉
More calm from social media= less acne ,you see 😀
Is there some other urea cream that you think is a safe bet F.C. ?
Haha! I actually just deleted all my social media last week! Unfortunately, something happened though and I had to reactivate them for the time being. Maybe one day….
And will do! It looks like a couple people want me to do DIY stuff, so I’m aiming to have something out within the next couple weeks. Just gotta finish experimenting! 😀
Love your blog. I always had sensitive skin but it was on the drier side so it was easy to care for and I could use all sorts of wonderful products with rich lush ingredients. Not so anymore. Malasessezia has run crazy internally and on my poor skin. I am impressed with your conclusions because through trial and error I saw many of the things that had worked for me on your lists with solid information and research explained. Ingredient breakdowns are gifts. Thank you!
I hope you do start writing about DIY because I am at that point too where I want to start tailoring some items for myself.
As to the Differin discussion, I have used it in the past but not for acne. I don’t have acne. I have hyperpigmentation and loads of peeling and some aftermath dark markings. I am going to use Differin again because in the past it was fantastic for smoothing and fading scars. I had old chickenpox scars from childhood that are now gone.
Keep up the humor and good work.
Awesome! I’m glad the information aligned with your trial and error. It’s kinda crazy how science can prove/explain why your shot in the darks work, huh? It’s still something that blows my mind every day.
I didn’t think anybody would be interested in DIY articles, but a few of you have asked now so I’ll definitely have something up within the next couple weeks! I’m excited myself! 😀
I agree. It’s a pretty lackluster acne treatment IMHO. It hasn’t done a lick of good for my sebaceous filaments/nose blackheads, which is why I’ll be introducing BHA into my routine soon. AHHH, hearing that your chickenpox scars faded from differin makes me so optimistic! Thanks for sharing. This is gonna sound dumb, but lately I’ve been getting overwhelmed with a feeling of euphoria (despite some personal hardships) knowing that differin is slowly helping with my scars from the past.
Cheers!
It seems so unfair after dealing with the nightmare of a skin issue you have to have battle scars to deal with. I honestly think that is what Differin is good for. I tried one of the Retin A derivatives back in the day and that stuff was waaay too much. My skin looked clear but funky like I belonged in a wax museum. Differin is a long haul product. I just used it and didn’t give it too much thought. Then one day I looked in the mirror and the marks were almost totally faded. Sorry for your hardships. Sincerely. You may not realize it but you have most certainly changed several people’s lives for the better and that is no small thing. I have a few products I have used and liked I will post on the fungal bible post.
Hi! Just stumbled across this blog a few days ago, and have appreciated reading through this entry especially. I’ve been using Differin for two weeks now. Seeing how it has behaved for others is somewhat comforting. My skin has gotten dry and shiny, it seems, and it looks oily even when it’s not. So, it must be doing something, but I’m hoping that this appearance change is only temporary, and my skin will adjust in time…
This is actually the first time I’ve ever commented on any sort of forum or website regarding my struggles with acne and scarring. More so than the acne itself (which has mostly subsided), the scars have made me even more self-conscious as I’ve gotten older. I’ve got a few indented scars on my nose, and I’m not actually sure if they’re from acne or maybe even from chicken pox when I was a teenager. I never noticed them until the past few years, but they’ve been there a while. My dermatologist recommended Differin because I’m still plagued with blackheads on my nose, but I’ve heard mixed things regarding adapalene and blackheads. But if you’re seeing improvement in scarring, then that encourages me to stick with it a while longer and see if it helps. 🙂
Im on week 11 and still have clogged pores on the side of my face that I begun Differin with. 🙁 I have less breakouts on my face than usual and they arent big bumpy things but now they are little and there are more of them. Does anyone have experience with this? I have followed it religiously what the derm told me to do. Thanks!
I think I just had a revelation here…. WHAT IF… we put differin on our atrophic scars only?!!! If our skin is completely clear from acne but we have a couple atrophic/pock mark scars, do you think it would help as sort-of a spot treatment for scars? I have clear skin from pimples, but in march I had a super stressful event happen in my life and i broke out horribly in cystic pimples (i never used to get cystic acne but Im 24 now and it seems like this is what will come at this age when and if your hormones/stress levels go crazy). I got pimples like crazy all over my cheeks and there was 3, very prominent cystic nodules, and I went to a derm she told me to get differin from the store. So I bought it, but before I used it… little ol crazy me starting researching the hell out of it and read a ton of reviews online and on acne.org and it completely TURNED ME OFF. So I never used it and I just cleared my pimples & cysts with some BP, sulfur mask, and salicylic acid. Now in July, my skin is completely clear from pimples and bumps and has been consistently clear, (I also started taking zinc supplements which I feel is really the main thing pulling the weight at keeping the pimples AWAY). Now all I’m left with is stubborn P.I.E. and 4 atrophic scars (2 boxcar, 2 possible rolling but its hard to tell because the rolling are still red P.I.E but they look indented with makeup :/ ). I have been so happy with how my skin has no acne but my skin still looks like sh*t bc of all the red marks and the 4 indents. The P.I.E is something I can deal with, its annoying AF but its fading.. but SLOWLY (your vaseline recommendation actually helps fade it SO MUCH- THANK YOU!). Ive been reading your blog for a couple months now (ever since Ive become so utterly obsessed with my skin since the break out a few months ago), and I came across your differin review… it kind of makes me want to take it out of the drawer and start using it. But my skin is CLEAR now and I believe it will stay that way, so I want none of that crazy purging nonsense everyone talks about with differin on acne.org and everywhere… What makes me want to try differin now is because you said it can help with the scars! So what if we just spot treat the scars!?!? hmmm I’m wondering if I should give it a try! Whats your take on that?
Woohoo! Glad to hear your skin is completely clear.
Hmmmm. Good question, it’s hard to say / I honestly don’t know. My intuition tells me it wouldn’t work as effectively vs. applying it everywhere, but you can always try it and report back here with your results. :p
Also, be cautious introducing differin with other actives. Many people can pull it off, for me personally it irritated my skin way too much. Often is the case that adding more works at cross purposes. Stay consistent and just remember PIE does eventually fade with time.
Thanks so much for replying! …You’re right it would probably not be as effective as applying it all over, OR it would take too long to see any actual changes. I’ll probably just go with your recommendation of a good AHA exfoliating regime to start. Maybe in the future i’ll opt for micro needling sessions or subcision. Thank you!!
What are your thoughts on alternating between Differin and Retin-A if you have both acne and anti-aging concerns? Do you think it’s better to stick with just one? Or go for both if your skin can tolerate it?
Do not do both, that would be really harsh on skin and I think a bit pointless. Differin does have some anti-aging properties, so I’d start there. If eventually months down the road your acne is settled but you don’t feel it’s helping with your signs of aging you can transition. Retin-A should keep your skin clear of acne.
Hi there, f. c.! I’ve been enjoing your blog for a long time, but silently entil now 🙂 I see you’ve updated 12th week, and seeing no exitment I’ve got to ask – could you, please, share more thoughts on overall experience of using adapalene? Will you continue to use it? Or will you stick to your usuall routine with BHA?
I am myself going through 7th week and honestly it’s been meh…dyhidrated and dealing with breakouts.
I use dermalmd scar serum for my face, over a several month period I got rid of all acne scars. I use it regularly to get rid of/heal anything I pick on my face. I see overnight results.
You said Differin worked besides chin acne, so I was wondering because I am having the same problem… what do you normally do for chin acne? And is it the underground chin type acne? Thanks!
Hi f.c.,
I had a little palpitation when I saw Dr. Andrea Dray’s vlog. Internet collision…. Anyway, I’m also 24 and have pretty successfully cleared my acne (both face and back) either because I gave up on cleansers and other proucts besides sunscreen and CeraVe cream, or because my mid twenties is a magical skin time and it decided to clear on its own.
I still have oily skin, particularly around my eyes. (I keep some Thayer’s in my car to wipe my eyes so I can see.) I also have developed forehead lines (well I can see them) probably because of genetics and expressions. I’m considering differin because of the oiliness and lines. I’m wondering if it will cause underlying spots to surface, but it still sounds like an interesting experiment. 2-3 weeks isn’t very long and a few months even is doable. Great information as always!
Best, Mikaela
Love Dr. Dray, she’s so silly! 🙂 If you skin is already clear then you shouldn’t purge much!
My primary question is in regard to adapalene CREAM 0.1%, rather than the gel. Minimal background: I am 49 y/o and developed facial eczema after having a light erbium-YAG laser resurfacing. Before being lasered, my skin was never sensitive and I used Retin-A Micro without issues. I think the lasering broke down my skin barrier, and it has never recovered. I do not get it anywhere but my face. Now I get eczema flareups periodically, including a bad one after my dermatologist started me on the adapalene cream and spironolactone (for its anti-androgenic effects) for hormonal acne. I’ve been trying to analyze all of my products to make sure nothing I’m using is feeding the malassezia, and I wasn’t sure on the cream, as it has a couple of ingredients ending in -ate. Here is the list: DIFFERIN® (adapalene) Cream, 0.1%, contains adapalene 0.1% in an aqueous cream emulsion consisting of carbomer 934P, cyclomethicone, edetate disodium, glycerin, methyl glucose sesquistearate, methylparaben, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, phenoxyethanol, propylparaben, purified water, squalane, and trolamine. The acne is clearing up nicely, but I would really like to get control of the eczema!
Can you give us an update regarding your usage and results for Differin? Have you also had any experience with Epiduo? I can’t decide which to buy between them.
Did you experience WORSE acne with Differin? Reading your updates about full blown inflammatory lesions, I’m concerned to give Differin a try. I’ve never really had what I would consider inflammatory lesions, just deep-under-the-skin, large, red pimples. So I guess what I’m asking is, is it possible for my acne to get worse if I begin using Differin?
Differin has a purging stage, so it can cause breakouts by expressing all the gunk underneath the skin. Do know however, that this typically subsides within 2 to 6 weeks. Cheers!
Hello,
I want to make sure I’m not over doing it in my skincare. Especially after reading a couple articles. I have been using Drunk Elephant’s C-firma day serum and T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic night serum for over a year. I have added Differin in over time and use it alone every other night for about a month and a half. I don’t want to thin my skin to where it can be seen through or where it starts aging. I’m in my late 20’s, have had acne since age 14, have been to dermatologists, and was once prescribed Differin.
AM: CeraVe SA cleanser, CeraVe PM moistorizer and Drunk Elephant’s C-firma
PM: CeraVe hydrating cleanser bar
Night A: Drunk Elephant’s T.L.C. and I
mix of safflower oil and 4 drops
rose hip oil
Night B: Differin OTC and the mix of oils
I’m not sure if I should start tapering off on the T.L.C and start adding in more nights of Differin so I just use the T.L.C. a couple times a month or leave things as is. It seems that I have gone through my first purge phase with Differin. Any information is appreciated.
Hi, do you by any chance till this day use differin?? I’m going to start it and I’m very scared, i hate myself right now because of the acne. It makes me feel so horrible, also i have pcos so on top of that I got lots of facial hair and hair lost. I dont feel like myself anymore, there are times were i just want to die
Hang in there. It gets better! Sending you my warmest thoughts.
Hey! I am in my 2nd week of Differin gel… I was also using the Differin cleanser, but I stopped because a girl at Ulta suggested I use Exviance face wash and toner to get through all the layers of my skin. So, every night I wash my face with the Exuviance (it does sting and burn a little, but so did the Differin face wash) and then I apply the toner with a cotton pad. I can see dead skin flaking off each time. This process also burns and my face is tomato red afterwards. I go ahead and moisturize carefully around my eyes and my eyelids. I let my skin rest for a minute or two and then apply the Differin gel to my face. It strangely feels soothing and silky. A few moments after it sinks in, my skin feels tight and dry. I carefully apply the moisturizer that gives me the least amount of stinging – Tatcha water gel(my skin burns with each new thing haha) and then go to bed. In the morning, I carefully wash off the Differin gel with the Exuviance and apply the toner. My skin is red and hurting, but now I get to apply moisturizer straight to my skin and it feels so great. My pores are microscopic, and the cysts on my chin are healed. I still have a few big pimples that are being stubborn on my jawline, but for the most part, my nose is blackhead free(that’s never happened before) and my skin feels like a china doll’s… I will admit, I used a microdermabrasion treatment a few days in because I couldn’t get rid of all the skin flakes, and I didn’t want them to clog my pores. This enraged my skin and it even swelled up a tiny bit over night. But it was healed by the evening of the next day and looking better than ever. I will probably do it again in a day or two, because the flakes are back. 🙁 But! I am only in my 2nd week and looking better already 🙂 Stay encouraged, my friend, not afraid. And don’t hate yourself, because pretty much everyone has had their run in with bad skin and I can’t imagine anyone actually thinking less of you because you have too. Our skin is constantly changing(it is an organ, after all) and you have to change with it, learning what works best for the time at hand. <3
Hiiii
Did differin help your fungal acne
Will it work for fungal acne?
Yes!
Hello – I really hope that you have the time to see and reply to this. I was prescribed differin creme .1% and not the gel. Should I put this on before or after Cerave in a tub? thank you so much. my derm is useless.
Hiya,
I know I’m not supposed to use too many actives at one time but I’m getting a bit confused on if I can still use them in the same week?
Say I want to use Differin 3 x a week – can I use my Stridex wipes on alternating days?
Also, I love the Hippie Vitamin C Serum you recommended – am I to retire that entirely or use on alternating days as well…
Thanks a million to whoever can answer!
Anne