Dermarolling Explained (8 Studies): Everything You Need to Know in 2020!
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Mmmm, derma rolling (a.k.a. microneedling)… or uh… stabbing your face with hundreds of little needles all at once with a device like this! BWAHAHA.
Before we proceed I have a confession to make: I probably have masochistic tendencies. You see, I quite enjoy derma rolling my face, and find the whole process pleasantly relaxing. Weird, I know.
You may be wondering, “HOW IN THE WORLD is inserting hundreds of little needles into your face relaxing? And why the hell would anyone want to do that ANYWAY?”
It sounds crazy, right? Well, let’s answer those questions so I can soon turn you into a masochist as well! 😀
We will be discussing what microneedling is, its benefits, the proper dermarolling technique including aftercare, how to maximize your results, stainless steel vs. titanium needles, and to help keep you motivated — include some micro needling before and after pictures. Let’s get started!
Table of Contents
- 1 What is Microneedling?
- 2 Micro Needling Benefits.
- 3 How Does Micro-Needling Work?
- 4 What Size Derma Roller is Best?
- 5 How Often Should You Dermaroll?
- 6 How to Use a Derma Roller.
- 7 How to Enhance the Results of Microneedling With Aftercare.
- 8 What Can I Expect After Microneedling?
- 9 When Will I See Results? The Science. Micro-Needling Before & After Photos.
- 10 Stainless Steel vs. Titanium Derma Rollers. Which is Better?
- 11 Best Practices.
- 12 Where to Buy Derma Rollers.
- 13 Want to Subscribe for Updates?
What is Microneedling?
Microneedling, often referred to as dermarolling, is a cosmetic procedure in which thousands of tiny little needles are inserted into the surface of skin via a rolling or stamping device. If you have no idea what these tools look like, here’s a picture of an inexpensive dermaroller I bought off Amazon.
As you can see, there are a ton of little needles encapsulated throughout the roller (192 in a total of eight rows to be exact). Those are the cute little things you’ll roll across your face in a controlled manner.
Despite how terrifying that may seem, it’s actually considered a minimally invasive procedure with little to no downtime. However, the recovery process does depend largely on the length of needles used. Obviously, the longer the needles, the lengthier the recovery time.
Micro Needling Benefits.
I know, I know. You may be thinking, “sweet jesus, this better have amazing benefits cause who in their right mind would want to roll their face with this TORTURING device?”
Easy: people that want to look to sexy!
Just kidding… sort of. But in all seriousness, people do it because there are a ton of benefits! These include (but are not limited to) a reduction in atrophic acne scarring, wrinkles, stretch marks, skin discoloration, increased skin thickness, facial rejuvenation, and enhanced product absorption. (1, 2, 3)
How Does Micro-Needling Work?
Derma rolling works by creating microscopic wounds which induce collagen and elastin production. Hence, it’s alternative name, “collagen induction therapy.”
If you didn’t know, collagen is the most abundant protein found in the human body and is responsible for holding together connective tissue like skin, muscles, tendons, cartilage, and bones. (4)
This lovely protein is also what keeps us looking young and gorgeous. Unfortunately however, it’s believed that collagen production slows down by about 1% after the age of 25, which to us mortals translates to the big A word — AGING.
What Size Derma Roller is Best?
This will depend largely on what you’re trying to accomplish. Since we’re all about simplicity on this blog, here’s a list of bullet points summarizing what length should be used depending on what you’re trying to treat.
- Acne Scars (shallow) = 1.0 mm
- Acne Scars (deep) = 1.5 mm
- Enlarged Pores = 0.25 – 0.5 mm (thickens epidermis, making pores less visible)
- Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmention (PIH) = 0.25 – 0.5 mm (increases product absorption and cell turnover)
Note: microneedling will not help Post Inflammatory Erythema (PIE).
- Skin Discoloration (e.g. melasma, hypopigmentation)Â = 0.2 to 1.0 mm (start with the smallest length)
- Sun Damaged or Saggy Skin = 0.5 to 1.5 mm (a combination of both is ideal)
- Stretch Marks = 1.5 to 2.0 mm (depends on the body part, but start with 1.5!)
- Surgical Scars (e.g. cesarean, vaccination, liposuction etc.) = 1.5 mm
- Uneven Skin Tone or Texture = 0.5 mm
- Wrinkles = 0.5 to 1.5 mm (depends on their depth, but again start with the smallest length!)
How Often Should You Dermaroll?
This too depends on the length of needles you will be using. Here are the absolutely maximum amount of times you can use a derma roller within a given time frame. Use your best judgment here, and make sure your skin is completely recovered before doing another session!
- 0.25 mm = every other day.
- 0.5 mm = 1 to 3 times weekly (start with less).
- 1.0 mm = every 10 to 14 days.
- 1.5 mm = once every 3 to 4 weeks.
- 2.0 mm = every 6 weeks. I highly recommend avoiding this length for home use.
How to Use a Derma Roller.
Alrighty, now for the meat and bones of this post! Follow these steps precisely to avoid any hazards.
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Step #1.
Disinfect your derma roller by letting it soak in 70% isopropyl alcohol for approximately 5-10 minutes. (5)Â No, 99% is not better. We need 70% because it evaporates more slowly which allows it to come into complete contact with microbial life.
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Step #2.
Throughly cleanse your face using a gentle pH-balanced cleanser.
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Step #3.
If you are using a derma roller with needles longer than 0.5 mm, you will need to wipe down your face with 70% isopropyl alcohol before the rolling process.
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Step #4.
Depending on your pain tolerance, you might need to apply an anesthetic cream.
I can tolerate 1.0 mm just fine, but I’d like to imagine that’s because I’m not a wussy and have high pain tolerance — two things which probably aren’t true at all.
However, you will most certainly want some numbing cream for anything above 1.0 mm, since that needle length will draw blood via pinpoint bleeding.
If you use numbing cream, follow the instructions the manufacture provides, and make sure to completely wipe if off BEFORE you start rolling! Numb Master Cream (5% Lidocaine) is great option.
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Step #5.
Begin dermarolling! :O
The technique is very important, so listen closely! I like to split up my face in sections. It just makes the whole process easier. Here’s a visual of what that looks like featuring my derma roller test subject. (Yes, I know how amazing the drawing is. I studied art in college. Not.)
Avoid rolling in the shaded area, that is, the orbit (eye sockets).
You have to roll in one direction 6 to 8 times (depending on your skin tolerance and sensitivity), while making sure to lift the roller after each pass.
Roll in one direction. Lift up. Repeat.
Lifting the derma roller after each pass prevents the dreaded “track marks,” that make you look like a cat clawed your face.
After you roll in the same place for 6 to 8 times, move the derma roller over slightly and repeat. Do this until you’ve covered the entire section of skin you’re treating.
After this step, it’s time to go back over the area you just rolled and repeat the process in the perpendicular direction. For example, say you finished rolling across your forehead vertically, now would be the time to go back and repeat that entire process horizontally.
By the end of this entire procedure you should have rolled over each area 12-16 times (6-8 horizontally, 6-8 vertically). Contrary to popular belief, we do not need to roll diagonally. Doing so creates an uneven pattern distribution with more stress on the center.
Despite this, some people still prefer to roll diagonally anyway, if you decide you’re gonna be that person please be safe and take extra precautionary measures.
If you didn’t understand any of what I just said — how dare you. Just kidding, I gotcho yo back homie! Here’s a video going over the proper derma rolling technique I just explained. (Click the picture below.)
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Step #6.
After you’re done microneedling, rinse your face with WATER ONLY.
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Step #7.
Clean your derma roller with dishwasher soap. I like to create a soapy water mix in a plastic container, then swish around the roller vigorously making sure I don’t hit the sides.
The reason we use detergents like dish soap directly after rolling, is because alcohol does not dissolve the proteins found in skin and blood.
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Step #8
Disinfect your derma roller again by letting it soak in 70% isopropyl alcohol for 10 minutes. Put it back in it’s case, give it a kiss, and store it somewhere safe.
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Step #9
Follow up with a basic skincare routine. That means no chemical exfoliates or active ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, tretinoin etc.
How to Enhance the Results of Microneedling With Aftercare.
To take your results to next level, use products that focus on hydrating, healing, and increasing collagen production. The single best thing you can do post-rolling is use a sheet mask.
My favorite is the Benton Snail Bee High Content Essence because it’s packed with a bunch of goodies like snail secretion filtrate, peptides, and bee venom for collagen induction / anti-aging, in addition to aloe juice, arbutin, azelaic acid, beta-glucan, panthenol, and allantoin (among other things) to even out skin tone and restore barrier function.
Sheet masks aside, you should also be looking for stuff that contains vitamin c (either ascorbic acid or sodium ascorbyl phospate), niacinamide, epidermal growth factors, or hyaluronic acid. Especially hyaluronic acid!
It’s gentle, and studies have shown it significantly speeds up wound healing in addition to hydrating the daylights out of skin. (6, 7, 8)
One quick note on vitamin C (ascorbic acid):Â take it easy with this one! It’s inherently low pHÂ can be irritating so it’s best to avoid using it prior to rolling. I would suggest you simply load up on it a few days before a microneedling session. Keep in mind that it only takes 3 daily applications of 20% ascorbic acid to saturate the skin with vitamin C, and it’s half life extends for a couple of days. (9)
If you really want to apply vitamin C the day of rolling, use sodium ascorbyl phosphate. It’s way more gentle and might convert into ascorbic acid in the skin anyway. (10)
Here is a list of product recommendations that include the ingredients listed above.
Hyaluronic Acid
- Hada labo Premium Lotion (Hyaluronic Acid Solution)
- Hada Labo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion. (Full Review Here).
- Timeless Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Epidermal Growth Factor (Human Ogliopeptide-1)
- Benton Snail Bee High Content Essence (serum). Full review here.
- Benton Snail Bee High Content Essence (sheet mask)
Both of these are holy grails of mine.
Niacinamide
Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid)
- Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum
- Timeless Vitamin C Plus E Ferulic Acid Serum
- Nufountain C20+Ferulic
- Skinceuticals C E Ferulic
Related reading:Â Best Vitamin C Serums (Ascorbic Acid): Top 5 Picks for Glowing Skin
Vitamin C (Sodium Ascorbyl Phospate)
Note: this is a lot more gentle, but not as potent as ascorbic acid.
What Can I Expect After Microneedling?
After rolling, the skin will be red for a couple hours (sometimes less). It will feel like a sunburn, and the skin will swell initially (very minor). I can usually feel my face pulsing and the blood circulating after I’m done. Again, I find it relaxing and somewhat therapeutic (masochists unite?).
People often mistake the minor swelling they experience for overnight success. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the plumping effect you see initially will subside within a few days. But like I said earlier, repeated rolling does have permanent results!
There will be some minor erythema (redness) for about 2 or 3 days, and the skin might start peeling. If this does occur, DO NOT pick at it! It will fall off naturally as time passes. Chill out, and enjoy being a lizard in the meantime.
When Will I See Results? The Science. Micro-Needling Before & After Photos.
Microneedling isn’t an overnight success kind of thing. This will take patience, time, and persistence.
You will generally see minor improvement pretty soon, but substantial progress might take a few months. Again though, that is to achieve substantial progress.
There is very well documented research showing that people can achieve major improvement in acne scarring or wrinkling in as little as 2 to 3 sessions using 1.5 mm monotherapy. (11, 12, 13, 14)
To help keep you motivated, check out these incredible micro needling before and after pictures. All of these were just 3 treatments with 1.5 mm over the span of 13 months. (Source: Fabbrocini et al., 2014b)
And here’s a video showing what the gradual improvement of three 1.5 mm sessions looks like over the span of a year.
Keep in mind, all of these were with just 3 sessions! Continued use delivers better results.
And as a side note: recall that 1.5 mm needles can be used every 4 weeks, which realistically means you can squeeze in 12 of these sessions per year. The researchers in the above study simply wanted to see if the results of 3 sessions were permanent, 10 months after the last treatment was concluded. The answer was a resounding yes. 🙂
Stainless Steel vs. Titanium Derma Rollers. Which is Better?
Derma rollers come in two varieties — either stainless steel or titanium needles. There’s a lot of confusion out there about which is better. Very simply put, it comes down to two things: durability and hygiene.
Titanium is more durable because it’s a stronger alloy than stainless steal. This means the needles will last longer and the sharpness won’t blunt as quickly. However, titanium isn’t as sterile as stainless steel, and as such requires more cleanliness.
Stainless steel on the other hand, is sharper and inherently more sterile, but blunts more quickly. In my opinion, stainless steel is the way to go. It’s what medical professionals, tattoo artists, and acupuncturists use. But if you can’t find them, it’s really not that important.
And don’t listen to the garbage coming from companies about how either one is somehow better and will produce greater results.
It’s a load of hokey pokey. For all intents and purposes, they’ll get the same job done.
Best Practices.
1. Never Roll Over Active Acne.
Never, and I mean NEVER use a dermaroller on active acne lesions! If you have pimples, stay far away from microneedling until your breakouts have subsided.
If you don’t know how to clear acne, then read my guide about how to do it in 3 simple steps.
2. Replace Your Derma Roller.
These things have a limited lifespan, so you need to replace them every now and then. Exactly how often you do this will depend on how frequently you use it.
Generally speaking, when you start sensing it doesn’t penetrate as much, or it feels a bit dull — that would be a good time to buy a new one. Luckily, these things are cheap so it won’t be costly doing so.
I aim to replace mine every 3 to 4 uses.
3. Sun Protection.
It’s very important that you use broad-spectrum sunscreen or avoid the sun a few days post rolling. If you’re planning on using 1.0 mm needles or anything longer, then you really need to avoid excessive sun exposure a week before rolling, and two weeks post treatment.
I mean, you should be using sunscreen daily anyway… but that’s a topic for another time.
4. Start Slowly.
Even if your skin condition requires longer needles, begin with the smallest first! Often you will see major improvement with the smaller ones, making the bigger needles unnecessary altogether.
There currently isn’t scientific consensus on what size needles are needed to induce collagen. Some studies have said it occurs at 0.5 mm, others have said it takes 1.5 mm. In all likelihood it probably depends on skin thickness (varies from person to person), and the pressure applied during rolling.
I once even read somewhere (but I can’t seem to find the source anymore), that using shorter needles more frequently gives better results than longer ones spaced out over a period of time. So keep that in mind, and start with the smaller ones!
5. Proceed With Caution.
Wait until your dang skin is recovered completely before doing another session! Rebuilding collagen is a slow process. You have to remember that skin takes approximately 27 days to regenerate itself. (15)
Often, you won’t even see the full results of a microneedling session until 6 weeks have passed. Keep that in mind when you’re getting angsty and want to impulsively roll again. Doing it too much, too soon, can result in serious damage. More is not necessarily better here!
6. PATCH TEST!
Because we can’t predict how skin will respond to certain treatments, you need to patch test first!
Simply roll in one small area (for example, a quarter of the chin) to see how the skin responds. If all looks good and dandy within a couple of days, then you may proceed with rolling the rest of your face.
It’s your masochistic device, not anyone else’s.
Where to Buy Derma Rollers.
They can be found on Amazon. You don’t need to overcomplicate things and get an expensive one. The cheaper ones will work just fine, for example this one off Amazon.
Welp, that does it for this article ladies and gents. Hope you’ve enjoyed it and found it resourceful. Be safe, be smart, and have fun with your dermarolling adventures!
Cheers,
—f.c.
Tell your friends about your new masochistic habit! Share this!
Hey FC! I’m wondering if the same instruction applies to dermastamping because I have a 140 needle dermastamp and have not used it because I have no idea how to 😅 So you go over an area horizontally and vertically 12-16 times as well or?
I am 31 years old and have male pattern baldness. I started balding at a very premature age. With that being said, I wonder if anyone has any experience using a derma roller on their scalp to promote new hair growth and/or revive “sleeping” hair follicles?
I have been derma rolling for the past three years and can honestly say that it has done wonders for my skin. I am in my 50s and people think I am in my early 40s. I have no wrinkles on my forehead, and non around my eyes. My nasal folds have reduced enough. I use .25 to 1.5 mm rollers along with serums. I roll with the .25 every other day and once a week with the .75 mm. I use the 1.5 mm once a month. I use it on my face, hands and chest. I really is not that painful. I just make sure that I do it on a day I stay indoors. The days I do not rollerderm, I use retin-A ..5 to 1%. I buy the generic version from India by mail through ReliableRX. I think the fact that I always wore large brim baseball caps since my 20’s helped with keeping my skin wrinkle free, but heredity was not kind to my nasal folds. Derma rolling helped with that. They are not completely gone, but I am happy with the rolling results.
Can I use 1.0mm dermaroller one week and then 0.5mm the other week? That is:
Week1: 1.0mm
Week2: 0.5mm
Week3: 1.0mm
Week4: 0.5mm
and so on
Hi,
When applying Vitamin C after the microneedling, what is the schedule?
Do I only do it after applying that day or do I have to do it once a day every day between sessions?
Hi
Thanks for this post. I’ve been looking to start derma-rolling after my sister had amazing results with her banish kit. I’ve just had my (much cheaper) alternative delivered from amazon, as well as 70% alcohol (my sister uses 99%, but I’m forcing her to switch to 70%). But when I mentioned that you wash your derma-roller with washing up liquid (are you American because in the UK I think the equivalent to dishsoap is washing up liquid), she gasped, and warned me that the derma-roller would rust- she claims she initially washed hers (very briefly) with water and she immediately saw signs of rust- should I expect this to happen, is it OK if the derma-roller does rust? Also, after you wash the derma-roller in dishsoap, do you then rinse it in water before you sterilise with alcohol?
Thank you
R.B.
hello. thank you for sharing this. i love the way you explain. i want to ask you that, before this i use alpha arbutin 3% + vitamin c + hyaluronic acid.. its good for my skin so far. its is safe if i combine the serum with dermaroller treatment? i dont found any articles that suggested the combination of arbutin serum and dermaroller. So, what do you think? Thank You! 😉
Thank you so much for this. I have two very specific questions.
1. I am sensitive to malassezia. Can I safely dermaroll over areas that have previously been effected by malassezia, or do I risk aggravating that?
2. I had an IPL treatment about a month ago. How long should I wait to start dermarolling in the areas that were zapped?
I love this blog. It’s so informative and has helped me immensely. Thanks for any insight you can provide!
Hey FC! Are you going to make a post on dermastamping soon? I heard great benefits on dermastamping, which is much better than dermarolling but I don’t know anything about it and there aren’t many articles on dermastamping. I don’t think it’s very popular but it yields better results. Please make a post on dermastamping soon! Thank you 🙂
Hi! This post was super super helpful, thanks so much for putting so much detail into it. So I got my dermaroller on eBay a while ago, it was literally like $1, and it looks exactly like yours; black handle, the pink on the actual roller itself, came in the same looking clear case. But my box says mine has 540 needles on it whereas yours has 182. I was just wondering if a higher needle count means I’ll see better results/faster results or anything??? I’ve never heard all that much about buying one based on a specific needle count, moreso on buying one paying attention to the size of the needles. I’m using mine to target old hyperpigmentarion and I literally just broke it out to use it for the first time ever, 15 minutes ago. Should I just go ahead and use this one till I have to replace it or go get the 182 needle one you use?
Also, does blood have to be drawn in order for your skin to actually produce more collagen? I’ve seen mixed answers about this on YouTube. I’m using mine to target hyperpigmenration first and foremost so I’d just like to know if blood has to appear for those pesky marks to go away. I bought a 1.00 mm roller and I went hard enough on my skin to leave it red but no blood was drawn. I’ve seen a lot of people on YouTube go super hard on their skin on purpose until there’s a looot of blood spots because they think that means they’ll see better results.
P.S. Sorry for such a long comment lol
I am dealing with under eye puffiness and hollow eye troughs. Would a .25 Derma Roller be the best for this area since the skin is more delicate? I’m confused if this size will induce collagen production in this area. Otherwise I did order a .5 as well.
Hi! I found this video in YT https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38Wty2Rpj7U
In 7:05 the doctor recommend vertical neddles instead of an actual dermaroller, so I was thinking about buying this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Koi-Beauty-Derma-Stamp-80-Microneedle-Skin-Age-Scar-Acne-Wrinkle-Stainless-Steel-/152287506323?var=&hash=item23750aef93:m:m1AfF285pRO7CCUKf3c1aHw
What do you think?
Am I supposed to put serum or moisturizer on my face prior to rolling or is it best to roll on a clean dry face and then apply serum and other skin care products?
Hey fc ! Lovely guide. I had to ask you though, is it safe to dermaroll over not active acne, but closed comedones ? Also, what about sebaceous filaments ?
Thanks for all you’ve done for the community <3
have you considered posting the email address that is connected to your amazon account (assuming it doesn’t identify you) so we can send you $5+ gift cards to fund your efforts
I really appreciate your blog, super informative, with humor, no BS and straight to the point.
All the links you provided to find and buy the dermaroller no longer exists. I currently have one form Banish Acne which cost around $50, and when I tried searching for the Angel Kiss Body Skin Care Wand Tool it only costs about $9 on amazon. I’m just wondering if I should be careful of these cheap ones you can find in amazon, and was wondering where you currently get yours.
Ps. I am in love with your site, Im learning so much! 😀
Hi I plan on dermarolling soon and I’ve actually bought one already. I’ve been researching about do’s and dont’s for dermarolling and this blogpost really helped ALOT. But I’m really curious about something. I’ve read in a few articles that you should stay away from parabens and AHA/BHA after dermarolling. Now my cleanser contains methylparaben and I apply AHA (glycolic acid) everynight; this was prescribed by my dermatologist. When would it be safe to use these on my face after one session of dermarolling? Like would it be okay if I use it the next morning after dermarolling at night?
I’ve read that dermarolling helps for booting your collagen, depending on the skin part you need a different needle.
What do you think on using a small dermarolling like 0.25 in the thin skin under the eye that looks dark in pale people? The idea is to boot the collagen production to make it thicker.
Also, the a scaring cream is a good idea after dermarolling there?
Thank you!
hi F.C. i really love this guide , its super conprehensive! i follow your step and it helps me a lot. However, would you look into the difference between the 540needles and 192 needles please ?
(( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MN7uM8Kwjz0&t=375s ))In the above video, she crack open the 540needles roller, and all of them are just spikewheel instead of real needles insert. I cracked open my 540 dermaroller, and it is exactly the same in the vid.
My personal experience: I bought two 540 needles dermaroller with 0.5 mm and 0.75mm. I’ve performed rolling session for 5 times and see no difference at all.
Later on, i bought a 0.5mm 192needle dermaroller with “real needle”. I did a rolling today with it, its more painful than thoe 540 , however, i can feel it creating micro wound on my face effectively.
Im not saying that 540 has no effect at all, but theres certainly a big diff btw 540 and 192 and i would love to share this info to other!
P.S. if you want to buy a roller with “real neele”, get the transparent one where u can actaually see needle insertion. :))
It is because even 192 roller can be spikewheel as well. ((https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddFE1ao-4K8))