CeraVe PM Review: My Holy Grail Moisturizer
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I avoided this moisturizer for so long thinking it would break me out, only to find it was my long lost best friend all this time. It played a crucial role in clearing my skin by repairing and strengthening my moisture barrier. Lets get into why I love product so much.
Table of Contents
Ingredients and Benefits of CeraVe PM.
Definitely the biggest wowing factor of this moisturizer for most people, including myself. Here’s the full ingredient list.
Purified Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Niacinamide, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 6-II, Ceramide 1, Phytosphingosine, Hyaluronic Acid, Cholesterol, Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Potassium Phosphate, Dipotassium Phosphate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Disodium EDTA, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum
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Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides
Also known as Medium-Chain Tiglyceride (MCT) oil, a super light weight non-comedogenic emollient that sinks in quickly. It’s essentially coconut oil with the lauric acid component removed.
Why is this a good thing? Apart from making it a liquid below room temperature, it’s completely compatible with those suffering from rosacea, seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis (eczema), psoriasis etc.
The culprit behind all these skin conditions is a fungi called malassezia, which under poorly understood circumstances becomes pathogenic for susceptible individuals. (1) It’s also the main factor behind pityrosporum (malassezia) folliculitis, better known as “fungal acne.” One of the most common causes of adult acne.
How do Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides work?
The malassezia yeast causing all these skin conditions feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths 11-24, (2) which pretty much translates to ALL oils except MCT (a.k.a. capric/caprylic triglycerides). Like I mentioned earlier, MCT oil is just coconut oil without the lauric fatty acid in it.
Lauric acid has a carbon chain length of 12, meaning malassezia can metabolize it. Caprylic and Capric fatty acids have a chain length of 8 and 10 respectively, making them completely compatible for malassezia-induced skin conditions (that is, the yeast can’t metabolize it).
To this day, I have only found 3 moisturizers that don’t include oils or variants of problematic fatty acid chain lengths in their formulas: Cerave PM, CeraVe Cream, and Sebamed Gel.
UPDATE 5/16/17: I have written a massive article about how to treat malassezia conditions like fungal acne, seborrheic dermatitis, atopic dermatitis (eczema), psoriasis, dandruff, tinea versicolor etc. and what products and ingredients are okay to use with it. Link here.
Now back to our scheduled programming….
On a side note, petroleum jelly (vaseline) works too because its carbon chain lengths are above 25. More reason to be all about that slug life. What I look like when I put vaseline on my face…..
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Niacinamide
Makes up 4% of this moisturizer and is one of my absolute favorite ingredients. It’s a B-complex vitamin that increases skin hydration, helps barrier function, brightens skin tone, and treats hyperpigmentation in addition to having anti-wrinkle effects comparable to prescription tretinoin. (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7)
Yeah, it does a little bit of everything! Did I mention it also increases collagen production and does comparatively better than antibiotics in treating acne? (8, 9, 10)
This. Ingredient. Is. Awesome.
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Ceramide 3, Ceramide 6-II, Ceramide 1, and Cholesterol
The outer layer of skin is composed of approximately 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids. (11, 12, 13) All these components play a crucial role in hydrating and maintaining a healthy skin barrier.
In this formula, ceramides and cholesterol work as skin-identical ingredients that the body metabolizes to repair barrier damage and prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL), that is, the water content that keeps the skin hydrated. (14)
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Hyaluronic Acid
A humectant and natural part of skin that has powerful wound healing properties. (15, 16, 17, 19) It’s capable of holding 1000 times its water weight, and hydrates the skin by drawing moisture from the environment and dermis giving a “plumping” effect that reduces the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and scarring. (20, 21)
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Cholesterol
Another skin identical ingredient that helps repair barrier function and maintain healthy skin. (22)
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Dimethicone
A silicon-
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Glycerin
Another humectant that moisturizes skin by drawing water from the environment and dermis.
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Polyglyceryl-3-Diisostearate and Cetearyl Alcohol
These two register as potentially pore-clogging ingredients on COSDNA. However, take comedogenicity ratings with a grain of salt. They’re inherently flawed because they rely on data collected from rabbits.Needless to say, bunny skin is not human skin. Just because a bunny gets acne from an ingredient, doesn’t mean you will.
There have been many instances of ingredients clogging poor bunny ears, that are perfectly suitable for human skin. However, if you suspect you have a sensitivity to fatty alcohols than these ingredients may cause problems so proceed with caution. The takeaway here is to patch test.
While this moisturizer may work for me and many others, there’s no real way of guaranteeing it will for you. Skincare is a very individual thing. YMMV, as they say. What works wonders for some, may not for others. So follow the golden rule and patch test all of the things!
Wanna read my horror story about not patch testing? Click here.
Application and Feel.
CeraVe PM almost has a gel-like consistency, but not quite. I’d say it’s a somewhat of cream-gel hybrid, but leaning more on the creamier side.
It spreads super easily, and has a calming effect on the skin. You can definitely feel a slithery thin barrier when applying it. It sinks in really nicely and leaves no oily residue. Once it’s dried the skin has a super soft and velvety-feeling.
It’s fragrance-free, but has a medicinal and clean scent. And although it is a “nighttime” moisturizer, it can be used during the day as well.
How to Use CeraVe PM.
Very simply use it as the last step in your routine before any occlusives like vaseline or aquaphor (if you use them). Because it includes Niacinamide (a pH dependent ingredient) it’s important to wait at least 20 to 30 minutes after chemical exfoliates or low pH serums to apply this moisturizer.
To give you an example of what that would look like, here’s a sample routine. You can ignore this if you don’t use low pH serums, chemical exfoliates, or other actives.
- Cleanse
- Low pH toner or serum (for example, Vitamin C). Wait at least 20 minutes.
- BHA or AHA (mandelic, lactic, glycolic) chemical exfoliates. Wait 20-30 minutes. Note: if you’re using both, BHA comes first.
- Spot treatments or actives like Differin and Benzoyl peroxide.
- Use CeraVe PM here.
The Takeaway.
- Ingredients: 5/5
Great stuff in here including 4% niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, capric/caprylic triglyceride, dimethicone, and repairing skin identical ingredients like ceramides and cholesterol.
- Benefits: 5/5
Highly moisturizing, fades discolorations, brightens skin tone, helps damaged skin, and repairs the moisture barrier. Very well tolerated across many skin types and conditions including acne, seborrheic dermatitis, eczema, folliculitis etc.
- Application: 5/5
Spreads easily, has no tacky feeling or oily residue, and leaves the skin soft, smooth, and supple. Has a clean medicinal scent.
- Packaging: 5/5
The bottle has a pump dispenser that locks to prevent bacterial overgrowth and accidental spillage.
- Value: 5/5
Very cheap, and one of the best moisturizers out there for the amount of benefits and repairing ingredients it comes with.
Overall: 5/5 (Holy Grail Status)
I cannot recommend CeraVe PM enough. There’s good reason behind it being a very common holy grail. It’s well tolerated across many skin types including those with severe sensitivities like psoriasis, dermatitis, rosacea, eczema, malassezia folliculitis etc. — and goes a long way in repairing damaged skin and strengthening the moisture barrier.
In all likelihood a moisturizer I will use the rest of my life, and has been a godsend in my darkest times. Hope you’ve enjoyed this review!
Cheers,
—f.c.
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In one of your other articles updated August 2017 (I believe its about the Cerave in moisturizer in the tub) you mentioned that Cerave PM cream is not okay to use because the yeast feeds on “esters” and “polysorbates” but in this article which was updated only about a month ago (December 2018) says it’s your holy grail? I’m confused because the two articles say two different things. If you could clarify that would be awesome!! 🙂 I bought the PM moisturizer today and want to try it but I’m worried it will break me out. I’m also concerned about the reformulation that has been talked about in the comments
ps. could you do a review on the Cerave AM cream??:)
Hi! Thank you for this helpful article. How did you find out Cerave PM has 4% niacinamide? Could you also share how to find out the percentage of ingredients in other products? Unless the label states it, I am clueless! Thanks again.
Hi, The bottle says “normal to dry skin” but I was wondering if this would work on oily skin as well? I can’t find a cerave moisturizer that caters to oily skin since almost all the moisturizers say for “normal to dry skin.”
Cerave PM was also my go to. My issue though is the 2 parabens listed at the end of the ingredients. Isn’t this a skin care 101 NO NO? Also with the new formulation, What is everyone using now? Is there anything OIL FREE out there with the great stuff…Nicinamide, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 6-II, Ceramide 1, and Cholesterol, and NO parabens? I’ve looked exhaustively. Please help point me in the right direction if you can oh wise one F.C.!!!
I used to use this back in college but stopped because I felt guilty splurging on $14 face of moisturizer when I was only making $50 a week. you have made me want to try it again!
Correction: polyglyceryl-3-Diisostearate as the ingredient I think is the culprate.
I love the Cerva ve pm moisturizer, but unfortunately they have changed the ingredients. Do you have a suggestion of other moisturizers that would be simular?
Can you explain how CeraVe pm recently change its formula. It’s been my “go to” moisturizer until last week when I had a severe allergic reaction all over my face and I can’t figure out what triggered it. Then I heard CeraVe changed its ingredients and I’m wondering if I can no longer use it. I know I’m allergic to quaternium 15 and I wonder if they now have something like that in their new formulation. Ugh! I’ve heard from others it now stings their face. For me, the reaction was SEVERE- requiring prednisone and corisone cream and it’s been 5 days and I’m still suffering. Why the heck did the new owner of CeraVe change the formula?! The older version was THE BEST. It used to be my “holy grail” moisturizer, too. But I don’t think I will ever use the new formula again. -big big bummer!
Hi, Cerave recently changed the formulation to this product. Can you please do an updates review on it please!!
Hi, love your blog! I actually just got out of target because I wanted to purchase this moisturizer but I was comparing the ingredients to the image above and it seems they’ve changed the formula. Main ingridient now is mineral oil which I try to stay away from since it seems to give me more breakouts. ? Is there any other moisturizer you would recommend. My current skin type is oily combo.. lately feels more dry though maybe because winter is coming.
Hi! I have a problem with Coconut oil breaking me out. Is MCT oil (caprylic/capric triglycerides) the same or different? I can’t find a lot on that ingredient 🙁
Hi! I’m a bit confused.
In your review of Cerave Moisturizing Cream, you wrote,
“Others moisturizers that are okay include Sebamed Face Gel, CeraVe Lotion, and Cerave PM.
UPDATE 6/1/17: This is false. I have since learned that this stupid ass yeast also feeds on esters and polysorbates. This rules out CeraVe PM and Lotion.”
But in this review, updated after that one, you are saying that these ARE ok for seb derm.
Can you confirm? Thanks
Hi I was just wondering if your take on cera ve PM has changed since your 2017 blog.. UPDATE 6/1/17: This is false. I have since learned that this stupid ass yeast also feeds on esters and polysorbates.
After reading this review I will go buy this moisturizer! Hopefully it will work well for my acne-prone skin too (which is dehydrated, combination…!)!
I was wondering, what is your current skin care regimen?
Is it normal that I find this moisturizer not very moisturizing? I have dehydrated skin because of over-exfoliating (acne treatment too), so I’m trying to fix that. I have stopped everything and am now using the CeraVe Foaming Cleanser and CeraVe PM – AM and PM. Just wondering if I’m doing things right? Or is there a waiting period until my skin can renew itself so I won’t feel dry even when I use moisturizer? Is is okay to use more than 2-3 pumps of the CeraVe PM? Or dabbing more on places that are feeling drier? Thanks !!
Hi again! I was wondering when you first started CeraVe PM did you feel some itchiness? I started a few days ago and sometimes it starts to itch. It’s not constantly, only random and doesn’t bother too much. Small itchiness feeling at random parts. (not a rash-like) Could this be some ‘getting used to’ for the skin? Did you experienced that?
I don’t know what is it about this lotion, but it irritates and dehidratates my skin like nothing I’ve ever tried before. It literally makes my skin hurt! It took me a while to notice because I also started to use retinol at the same time, and I thought that was what caused the irritation. But for a while I became a bit to lazy to layer my skincare and I notice my skin was better. And than I started using it again and boom… soreness and irritation. Now I have red patches on my face and neck. And my skin is not even that over the top sensitive. Too bad, I really wanted to like it, the price was great for the amount of moisturiser you get, but I guess it wasn’t meant to be. Going back to Bioderma.
Hi F.c.
Had to chime in on this one to add more support to PATCH TESTING! 🙂
I used this moisturizer in the past and liked it enough to recommend it to my sister. She is not at all “into” skincare because she is generally clear skinned, so wants to be as simple as possible with what she does. She tried it because she started getting some dryness around her mouth (like I did at her age, so I assumed normal ‘getting older’ dryness) and it made her “break out” overnight. It wasn’t really pimples of course, but a rash that she developed. The first time it happened, she thought she got a bad bottle and stopped using it. She tried it again a few months later and the same thing happened. 🙁 I saw it that time and it was not pretty. Definitely a rash of little red and white bumps, primarily only where she applied it. So she has a sensitivity to some ingredient, although she’s not the type to try to figure out which one. This experience has made her mistrustful of ‘skincare’ and pushed her to try coconut oil or other ‘1 ingredient’ or so-called “natural” things (sigh). She stopped using anything for a while as she recovered, but I feel bad for not recommending a patch test. We are technically ‘half’ sisters, so apparently I got the genes that could handle the formula ;).
I found your site from your comment on LabMuffin. I’ll be exploring more but so far have enjoyed the what I read. I don’t have to deal with acne, thankfully, but am picking up some good information nonetheless. Thanks for your hard work!
Hey there! I was wondering- is benzoyl peroxide a ph- dependant product? That is: do I have to wait 30 minutes after applying it before moisturizing?
Hello, I was wondering what do you think of the Avene Tolerance Extreme – Cream?
It contains: Avène Thermal Spring Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer.
It has the Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride that you are talking about in this article. How do I know if this product ‘don’t include oils or variants of problematic fatty acid chain lengths in their formulas’?
Thanks!