The Ultimate Azelaic Acid Guide: Everything You Need to Know

by | Dec 1, 2016 | Acne, Guides, Ingredients | 26 comments

Azelaic Acid, a.k.a “The Unsung Hero.” The equivalent of that really cool kid in school no one knows about. One google search and you’ll quickly learn this ingredient doesn’t get the love it deserves. Once you discover it, you’ll be like that fish from spongebob.

“Hey all you people! Hey all you people! Hey all you people won’t you listen to me? I just found an acid! No ordinary acid! An acid filled with beautifying property!”

azelaic acid spongebob

Alright, let’s get into the science behind this wondrous topical. We’ll be discussing what it is, how it works, the benefits, side effects, how to use it, and where to find it.

What is Azelaic Acid?

For you natural skincare enthusiasts you’ll be happy to hear it’s a naturally occurring compound found in whole grains, also produced by the skin’s microbiome (in other words, the healthy bacteria and yeast that live on our skin). (12) It’s pH dependent meaning it has to have the right level of acidity to work. Ideally a product containing Azelaic Acid (AzA) will be formulated with a pH of 4.9, which is approximately the same pH of healthy human skin. Any lower and the product won’t be as effective. (3) It’s generally used to treat acne, rosacea, and melasma though one study also found it’s effective against psoriasis too. (4)

What Are the Benefits of Azelaic Acid?

Be prepared for a massive wall of incoming text explaining its badassery! This acid has been studied extensively and the benefits are plentiful. The craziest thing is that no one really talks about it. When I first discovered it I felt like I found a goldmine no one knew about it. And as you can clearly tell, I stock up and might have already gone through a few tubes of this stuff… ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

15% finacea gel

Anyway, you heard it here first everyone, Azelaic Acid (AzA) is a super-star ingredient that deserves more love. Spread the word!

Azelaic Acid is an extremely effective acne treatment.

Let me start off by saying that if you’re using Benzoyl Peroxide to treat your acne, you should really consider opting out for Azelaic Acid instead. Don’t get me wrong, Benzoyl Peroxide is a fantastic active ingredient and what kept me clear for many many years, but it has the tendency to be overly irritating and can cause some unwanted side effects longterm.

Let’s start our investigation by comparing AzA to other popular acne medications.

  • Azelaic Acid vs. Benzoyl Peroxide.

How does AzA compare against Benzoyl peroxide? Pretty damn well. In fact, almost identically. In one study 580 people were either given 15% Azelaic Acid, 5% Benzoyl Peroxide, or 1% Clindamycin (an antibiotic). They were told to apply whatever they got every day for 4 months.

The results: Clindamycin sucked balls (can you tell I’m not a fan of topical antibiotics?), and AzA proved to be as effective as Benzoyl Peroxide. Overall, it reduced acne by about 70% on average without the side effects Benzoyl Peroxide had. (5)

  • Azelaic Acid vs. Tretinoin (Retin-A).

Once again AzA compares almost identically. A 6 month study involving 289 people found that 20% Azelaic Acid cream and .05% Tretinoin were “equally effective” against acne. Very similarly to the Benzoyl Peroxide study, the Azelaic Acid cream was better tolerated and didn’t cause the side effects seen with Tretinoin. (6)

Studies comparing the effectiveness of AzA as an acne treatment, particularly against Benzoyl Peroxide, Tretinoin (Retin-A), and antibiotics have been replicated with similar results time and time again, the first as early as 1982. (789101112) One study even found AzA was effective against adult acne when other treatments were not. (13)

And I saved the best for last….

I started fan-girling so hard when I read this study. Okay, so this clinical trial involved 85 participants with severe acne who were either given Accutane or 20% Azelaic Acid cream to be used with Minocycline (another lame antibiotic). After 6 months the Azelaic Acid-antibiotic patients were 100% cleared of cystic acne! They also saw an 88% reduction in whiteheads and papules, and 70% reduction in clogged pores. Pretty unbelievable, if you ask me.

Accutane patients also saw 100% clearing in their cystic acne, and an increased 97% reduction in whiteheads and papules, and 83% in clogged pores. So, overall the Azelaic Acid-antibiotic group didn’t beat Accutane but did comparatively well.

Please remember, it’s Accutane we’re talking about here: the most powerful acne medication in the world! To do well against it is no small feat. The researchers who conducted this study agree, and concluded that Azelaic Acid is a highly effective treatment for severe forms of acne, and considered a valuable alternative to Accutane with fewer risks and better tolerability. (14)

  • How does Azelaic Acid work to treat Acne?

Azelaic Acid is antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-keratinizing (meaning it prevents a build-up of dead skin, which could in turn clog pores and cause breakouts). (15) If you want to learn more or see a visual of what the keratinization process looks like, watch this video.

Unlike Accutane, it doesn’t change how much sebum your skin produces but decreases the free fatty acid content in skin making it an inhospitable environment for bacterial and fungal overgrowth. AzA also starts accumulating in the follicle after just one application to concentrations high enough to inhibit protein synthesis by Propionibacterium acnes (the bacteria that causes acne) and Staphylococcus epidermidis. (16171819) I know that sounds confusing, but think of it like this: a zombie apocalypse strikes and suddenly there’s no food available. Acne is a starving person, and Azelaic Acid is the farmer. Only the farmer tells the starving person to piss off and they promptly die. Alright, that was a terrible analogy…. But you get the point! Essentially, AzA creates an environment that starves acne and malassezia-induced skin conditions to death.

Azelaic Acid Treats Rosacea.

  • What is Rosacea?

For the uninitiated, rosacea is a chronic skin condition characterized by erythema, or dilated capillaries (small blood vessels) that give an overall appearance of redness. There are four types of Rosacea (20) but the main two are subtype 1, and subtype 2. (21)

Subtype 1 is strictly limited to superficial facial redness, and often used interchangeably with “couperose skin.” Subtype 2 is known as papulopustular rosacea, and as the name implies includes papules and pustules (in other words, pimples and whiteheads) in addition to the facial redness. Here are some photos of what that looks like.

  • Studies.

Despite how effective Azeliac Acid is against acne, the FDA has approved it as a primary treatment for Rosacea. In one study, 15% Azelaic gel was shown to control papulopustular rosacea over a period of 6 months by significantly decreasing erythema and inflamed lesions. (22)

Using antibiotics in conjunction with 15% Azelaic Acid gel has been shown to increase the effectiveness of its treatment against papulopustular rosacea.(23)(24).

I’d explain to you how it works against Rosacea, but then I’d have to kill you. Just kidding. Truth is, scientist don’t really know yet, but suspect it has something to do with it’s antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties (go figure). (25)

Azelaic Acid Treats Hyperpigmentation and Melasma

  • What is Melasma?

Really quickly — melasma is a skin condition caused by an overproduction of melanin resulting in brown discolorations on the skin, and looks very characteristically like hyperpigmentation. (26) This condition is worsened through sun exposure. All the more reason you should be using sunscreen! Yes, I’m looking at you ma’am/sir.

  • Azelaic Acid vs. Hydroquinone?

In case you didn’t know, hydroquinone is a standard treatment for hyperpigmentation and melasma that works by inhibiting melanin production. It can be found over the counter up to 2%. Anything higher requires a doctor’s prescription.

There has been some controversy in the past regarding hydroquinone’s longterm safety, namely a 1991 study showing the possibility of it causing tumor growth in mice. (27) There were a couple problems with this study; for example, mice were fed 0.8% hydroquinone rather than applying topically. Regardless, hydroquinone has been banned in South Africa, Japan, Australia, and the European Union. (28) There are some skincare experts and companies that disagree with this assessment, particularly Paula’s Choice and FutureDerm. But I’ll let you make up your mind on this.

Now, if you wanna avoid the controversy altogether use Azelaic Acid! Some studies have shown it is more effective than 4% Hydroquinone in treating hyperpigmentation without the unwanted side effects. (2930) One of the largest studies done was 24 weeks long, involved 329 women and found there were “no significant treatment differences” between the two. Better yet, AzA had no severe side effects like exogenous ochronosis or allergic sensitization, which are rare but possible outcomes of prolonged hydroquinone use. (31)

Azelaic Acid is Good For Hair Growth.

The combination of zinc sulphate and AzA has been shown to inhibit DHT, which makes it an effective treatment for hair loss. (32) This is why you’ll often see variations of Rogaine (Minoxidil) products containing AzA.

  • Wait, I heard Azelaic Acid causes hair loss?

I’ve seen a few people assert this, but it isn’t entirely true and often results from a misunderstanding behind the mechanisms of hair loss. Let me explain.

Dihydrotestosterone (DHT) is responsible for androgenetic alopecia (better known as male or female pattern baldness). However, that same hormone is what causes facial hair growth in men. In other words, the hormone responsible for balding is the same hormone that causes men to grow beards. This is why you’ll often see heavily bearded men that are bald. If you haven’t noticed that yet, have fun.

  • The takeaway.

AzA is good for hair loss on the head, but can cause thinning of the beard. Even still, the thinning of facial hair would be very mild and unnoticeable to most people. As far as I know, there has only been one study documenting this and it was a rare exception. (33) So ladies, if your concerned about growing a beard it won’t hurt to use some Azelaic Acid.

Summary of the all the benefits.

Azelaic Acid is a highly effective acne treatment comparable to Benzoyl Peroxide, Tretinoin, and even Accutane. It also treats rosacea, melasma, and hyperpigmentation. It has antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-keratinizing properties. It prevents dead skin build up, unclogs pores, reduces redness, and most importantly does all this gently without major side effects! AzA may also be effective for treating hair loss.

Side Effects.

As you’ve probably gathered by now, there really aren’t any major ones. That’s what makes Azelaic Acid so great and versatile. It has numerous functions and treats many skin conditions without the irritation that goes hand in hand with other topical prescriptions and ingredients.

To summarize some of the main points in case you missed them: AzA is associated with very little risk, is non-toxic, or teratogenic (meaning it may cause birth defects. See Accutane). It has excellent tolerability, doesn’t induce bacterial resistance, or photosensitivity (in other words, increasing the adverse effects of sun exposure). (3435)

When there are side effects they are very mild in nature and include stinging or burning upon application, and skin dryness. (36) Despite this, AzA doesn’t actually damage the skin barrier or cause transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which is just a fancy way of saying your skin losing moisture. (37)

How to Use Azelaic Acid and Tips.

Use about a fingertip’s worth of Azelaic Acid for the whole face after cleansing. If you find you are experiencing some irritation from it, try buffering it by applying your moisturizer first. This won’t decrease its effectiveness and is a good way of avoiding unnecessary irritation. Pro-tip: the same can be done with Benzoyl Peroxide (I’ll be making a whole post about reducing Benzoyl Peroxide irritation in the future). EDIT: Here it is.

Remember to introduce AzA slowly and patch test first. More isn’t necessarily better. One study found that applying 20% Azelaic Acid cream once daily was just as effective as applying it two times a day. (38) If you can, opt out for 15% Azelaic Acid gel instead of cream. The gel has a lower lipid concentration requiring less emulsifiers and unnecessary ingredients that could potentially irritate the skin. Another benefit of using the gel version is increased penetration. One study involving mice showed it had an 8-fold increase in delivery versus the cream version. (39)  In short, the gel is more potent and less irritating.

When will I see results?

Pretty quickly. In a year long study involving 1,200 patients who used 15% Azelaic Acid gel, dermatologists concluded there was an 81.9% improvement in acne after 35 days, and 93.9% improvement after 73 days. Almost 80% of patients said they were “very satisfied” with their treatment at the end of the study. (40)

Where can I find Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a prescription drug so it may be a little hard to locate especially if you don’t have a dermatologist. Hoping I don’t get in trouble for saying this, but you can find it on the bay of e…. if you catch my drift. There are two main brands sold, namely 20% skinoren cream and 15% finacea gel. Do note that the name skinoren and finacea are used interchangeably: they are the same brand. The only thing that matters is what variation you prefer (cream or gel). If you live in the U.S. it might take a while to receive because it ships overseas.

If you don’t like the idea of ordering a prescription drug online, or would rather not wait for long shipping times, there are two AzA products on Amazon. GIGI Bioplasma’s 15% Azelaic Cream, and Ecological Formulas Melazepam Cream which contains 20% Azelaic Acid. There is a third AzA product listed, but it doesn’t have the proper pH to work so don’t waste your time buying it.

Alrighty, that does it folks. Have a lovely day!

Cheers,

—f.c.

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