Accutane Explained (16 Studies): Literally EVERYTHING You Need to Know!
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Accutane, a.k.a. “The Nuclear Option.” The place where people go when literally nothing else works. If there was a “one-size-fits-all” product or pill to clear acne, this would be it. It’s powerful, effective, and… somewhat dangerous.
Why is it so effective? Because it basically stops your body from producing oil — like, at all. I know, that sounds intense…. that’s because it is intense! Let’s explain and dive into the science!
Table of Contents
What is Accutane?
Accutane (or isotretinoin) is a synthetic derivative of vitamin A primarily used to treat severe cases of acne which haven’t responded to anything else. It’s a prescription-only drug taken orally requiring dermatologist referral.
Dosage highly depends on the severity of acne, but ranges from 0.5 mg to 2 mg daily, with low-dose recommendations becoming the standard. Despite it having a very high success rate of about 90%, a course of Accutane can last anywhere from 3.5 to 10 months (1, 2), so don’t expect it to clear acne overnight!
In fact, should anyone ever tell they can get rid of your acne that fast, they would be lying! Myself included :p
This was unfortunately a lesson I had to learn the hard way :'(
How does Accutane Work?
Isotretinoin works by limiting the amount of oil your body produces (about an 80% reduction). (3) Because acne in the most basic sense is simply an overgrowth of bacteria in a clogged pore, you can imagine why this is so effective — less oil means less room for bacteria to thrive.
It also significantly reduces oil gland size, regulates cell-turnover rate, and has anti-inflammatory properties. (4) In other words, it kicks some serious ass by addressing every possible cause of acne. This badassery however, doesn’t come without its share of side effects.
Side Effects of Accutane.
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Long Term Side Effects
This part scares many people, but we’ll work through it together. A fair warning now though: this part isn’t pretty.
Isotretinoin is a “category X” drug, meaning it is known to cause birth defects if taken during pregnancy. (5) This safety concern has made it mandatory for females to take birth control while on Accutane to minimize the chances of unwanted pregnancy. And we’re just getting started…
You ever see those crazy commercials on T.V. advertising some new hip medication that has more side effects than problems it solves? Well, imagine that being Acctuane’s pansy little brother.
Long term side effects occur in 7.2% of patients and can include crohn’s disease (i.e. inflammatory bowel disease), abnormal bone growth, dry eye syndrome, arthralgia, xeroderma, and exacerbation of eczema — though all of these are considered mild in nature. (6, 7, 8, 9)
Fun-fact: there was actually an Accutane lawsuit in 2009 that temporarily banned it from the U.S. market under grounds of causing inflammatory bowel disease (okay, maybe that’s not so much a fun-fact).
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Short Term Side Effects
More common side effects include dry lips, dry skin, nosebleed (caused by dry skin), eczema (dry rash), cheilitis (inflamed dry cracking lips), increased photosensitivity, and dry mouth. (10) You see a theme here? It’s called DRYNESS. Be warned, you will become a pruny raisin.
What to Expect on Accutane.
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Medical Testing
The process begins with your dermatologist. Since Isotretinoin is taken very seriously, there’s a lot of procedural stuff that goes on beforehand, particularly for woman. These include discussions about sexual and menstrual history, education about contraception, blood work, pregnancy tests, and follow up visits every 28 days. Males can expect similar protocols, without the pregnancy stuff :p
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Mood Change
Mood change, especially depression isn’t unheard of while on Accutane. The science and research on this is all over the place, but one of the most reliable studies found that depression occurs in 0.4% of users, with a relative risk ratio of 2.68. (11, 12)
In other words, someone who takes Accutane is 2.68 times more likely to develop depression than someone who doesn’t. If you do find you fall into this category, please seek social support as soon as possible and talk to your health care professional.
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Acne Flair-Up
There’s a dreaded “purging period” during Accutane when acne gets worse initially. One study found it happens in 32% of patients and typically lasts 3-4 weeks. (13) If this happens to you don’t be discouraged, it simply means the medication is working its magic. These side effects will subside soon enough.
If you find it overbearing take a deep breath, listen to music, meditate, write in a journal, exercise — anything to destress and keep your mind off it. For most people, this is the hardest part about Accutane. Once you’ve gotten past this point you’re more than halfway there, Acne-warrior.
Phew, now that the bad stuff is outta of the way let’s get into the good news.
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Dramatic Results
Nearly all Accutane users destroy their acne! If this was a baseball game, the ball didn’t just go out of the park, it traveled into a black hole across the galaxy never to be seen again. Up to 95% of patients see excellent results, with results often being permanent. (14)
A reduction in anxiety and depression among cystic acne patients is very common after a successful bout of Accutane. (15) It goes without saying, but finally clearing acne has a huge and lovely impact on your confidence and wellbeing.
When your skin starts clearing and people notice….
Skincare Routine on Accutane And Best Practices.
Your dermatologist will provide the best guidance here. Listen to them before taking any advice from me. Generally, they’ll recommend a barebones skincare routine that minimizes irritation. This means no harsh acne washes, active ingredients, chemical and physical exfoliates, or waxing.
Skin is very fragile and sensitive on Accutane, so baby it every chance you get. Use a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser and moisturize like there is no tomorrow. Start moisturizing before the skin is dry. Sunscreen is a must due to the photosensitizing properties Accutane causes, without it you will sunburn far more easily.
Not skincare related per-say, but avoid multivitamins, alcohol, and taking Accutane on an empty stomach. Research has shown that the absorption of Accutane is 1.5 to 2 time greater when consumed with a meal including high fat content. (16)
One final note, and I cannot stress this enough: your skin will become dry and sensitive, so pamper it like you would a newborn. And if you find that nothing is minimizing the dryness, use Aquaphor — trust me, it will become your new best friend.
Support Groups and Resources.
Because doing a course of Accutane can result in many side effects and take its toll on you emotionally and mentally, it’s important to have a safe space to go when you need to vent or have concerns. I highly recommend joining an online support group.
Accutane.Reddit.com is a fantastic place filled with very caring and compassionate people. Their motto: “let’s go through this together.” Acne.org is another rich source of information with supportive forums. We are all here to help!
Also watch youtube videos of people who have gone through Accutane themselves. There are a ton of them. Hearing about other’s experiences is an invaluable way of easing stress and preparing you for what to expect.
I hope knowing that hundreds of thousands of strangers have made this journey, gives you some peace of mind and sense of comfort: if they made it, so can you.
Final Words.
If you begin to lose hope, remember to have the longterm goal in sight. This is all temporary. The pain you’re experiencing now will be worth it in the end, and if it’s not — it’s not the end. Keep pushing, hold on, love yourself (you’re beautiful damn it!), and it’ll be better before you know it.
UPDATE: If you’re considering going on Accutane, I highly recommend you try clearing your acne with my 3 step approach first. I put as much information into that guide as I possibly could, and I think it could realistically clear 90 to 95% of people.
Very warmly,
—f.c.
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Psst, I believe you mean .5-2mg *per kg body weight* per day.
I think I should post here my experience with Accutane. Since your blog helped me calm down my fungal acne and it is finally under control. I was diagnosed with fungal and hormonal acne when I was 21 years old. My derm said it was caused by my PCOS and eating habits. I had fungal acne in my chest, under my breast, and my entire back (literally my shirts always had blood stains). From memory I don’t remember the dosage she prescribed me, however if you have depression or history in your family of depression it is not recommended the usage of Accutane because one of the side effects is the increase of suicidal thoughts if I remember correctly. I did not have this side effect.
Also, you cannot eat carrot to avoid overdosing of Vitamin A. Further, you will need to do blood work every month and can only get a new prescription if your not pregnant and all your results are normal. If you are female you have to take birth control during the course of treatment.
The side effects that I experienced were constipation, dry eyes, and dry lips. On the plus side, my hair has never looked so beautiful and my scalp was super healthy and not itchy.
My fungal acne in my back, chest, and under my breast were gone within the first month of usage. Also, I have no scar left in my back and it looks like I never had any acne problems in my life. However, my face acne took 7 months to clear where in the first 3 months it got way worse and in the 4th month my doctor had to increase my dosage to improve my skin. On the 5th month my skin was starting to clear out but on the 6th month check up my derm decided to extend for another month as I still had few spots in my cheeks that did not clear. Usually, the treatment plan is for 6 months (at least in my country) that can be extended for more 6 months depending on how your skin and body is reacting.
In my country, there is a refund policy where if you keep the boxes and receipts of your Accutane you receive free treatment if your acne comeback. In my case, my acne did not come for almost 10 years and it only came back due me using products that were not safe for my skin. Also, it only came back in my face and the rest of my body I only use safe products.
During my treatment, my derm wanted to keep my routine as simple as possible. She asked me to avoid sun exposure at all cost and always wear hats. Also, to use sensitive skin type cleanser, La Roche Thermal Water, and La Roche Sensitive Skin sunscreen. Since I was young and super oily she did not recommend any moisturizers until after treatment was over.
Overall, I liked the results of my treatment and would recommend it. I would definitely do it again if it was the case. In my opinion, the worst part of the treatment it is the first few months where your skin get worse and worse and people look at you funny and make mean comments on your skin. But, once the treatment kicks in and you start to see results your self-esteem will get better and you will start to love your skin again. So, if you are reading this while doing the treatment hang in there as it gets worse until it gets better.
My final note is do not pop any of your acne during treatment. I did that and got a scar that took me forever to get rid of.
Thanks for sharing this post ❤️! I was 42 years old at the time and had been struggling with moderate acne for years. It seemed to be worse as an adult compared to my teenage years. Accutane was the best thing I could do for my skin. I had tried antibiotics, birth control pills, proactive and other topical medication, but would only see temporary results. I have had a history of depression and was worried about trying Accutane. During the course of treatment I had no depression only very dry lips and minor joint pain in my knees. Now my skin is completely clear and I can go without makeup. I now feel much better about myself and would do it all over again if I had to.
F.C. Did you try a round of accutane?
Can accutane help with Malassezia or is it only effective for bacterial acne?
Is it bad to use active ingredients like niacinamide/alpha Arbutin/vit C while on accutane? 😮 not sure if they speed up the healing of my PIE or do more harm though I can see my skin tone mostly evening out in general from using products that contain niacinamide. Thanks I love your blog so much I’ve been going through all the guides & reviews <3
“[…]it is our utmost important duty as intelligent and critically thinking people, to approach skincare logically and even somewhat scientifically[…].” You’re amazing and what you do is amazing. Your blog is hands down the Internet’s best and most exhaustive resource on treating acne with science. I’m not a biologist or a dermatologist but I am a scientist, and I really value what you’ve been able to build here. Thanks so much for what you do, you’re making a measurable difference to countless people with skincare concerns.
Thank you very much for posting this! I found it very helpful! I still have one question after reading this post. If a male takes Isotretinoin, does he have the potential to expose a fetus to the drug?
I went on accutane. It did help tremendously while I was on it for 7 months but my acne came back worse than before within a year after stopping. I have PCOS though so maybe that’s why. Also my dad had severe acne so I am pretty sure I have a strong genetic component to my acne anyways.
Hey there, I am thinking about starting an accutane treatment because I couldn’t solve my hormonal acne in two years. You recommended Aquaphor in this post as your go to moisturizer. Is it still your favorite recommendation or would you recommend something different, like Squalane or so? Thank you!!
I had an Accutane (Oratane) prescription for 6 Months 30mg. I am a healthy person and didn’t have any underlying problems of Anxiety or Depression until in the middle of the second month. It began with moderate mood swings and quickly excellated in Really Bad Anxiety (Social Anxiety). It was so bad that I became depressed and had suicidal thoughts. Which I never had and there was no reason for me to have it. I stopped using Accutane and my anxiety and depression was gone. It was the worst experience of my life ! Just to give you an example I am deputy headboy and usually talk infront of the whole school with ease and no stress. In the second moth of my Accutane experience I couldn’t even enter the school hall and sit down because I was to ashamed to interact with people, I was afraid to go to school every morning, I was ashamed to talk even to my closest friends. My concentration in class was haywire! I couldn’t even understand the most basic stuff and struggled to remember the simple tasks we had to do. Why did this happen and how come I feel like the only one that had this bad experience. I am not a doctor but I think Accutane should be taken with more care. Because other persons might not get out like I did !
Accutane changed my life. I started breaking out in grade school, by junior high and high school to young adulthood I had cystic acne. I tried lots of different treatments (topical, diet, cleansers, antibiotics) before going for it.
It was a process going from ugly duckling to rather cute and attractive the same years I start drinking and going to bars, it was surprising how much acne had become part of my personality and how much I related to the world. Also, I don’t think people were open about maintaining your sexual health as a young women on hormonal birth control using a product that causes dryness in general, and the internet wasn’t was it was now- so I am glad there are support groups. I was a success story: I had acne for 10 years, I took Accutane in my 20’s and it banished it. I have scares, but the doctor was shocked at how little I scared given the severity and the length of my acne.
can accutane get rid of fungal acne permanently? I’m getting tired of avoiding so much ingredients 🙁